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| Soulfire |
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I went to a ford dealership today to kick some tyres (twas my day off) and test drove a t2 te50 5 spd manual. Damn nice car, went pretty well I have to say.
Thing is, as I was driving it, I noticed the clutch was quite a bit softer and lighter than my xr6. I asked the salesman about it (as I was pretty sure the te50 didn't have a hydraulic clutch, and it didn't really feel hydraulic, just lighter). The salesperson (which may have just been talking s**t) reckoned that the cable clutch had had some tubing fitted around it which somehow lowers the resistance of the cable (as a mod, not factory); but hadn't been converted to hydraulic. I haven't heard of this and sounded kinda weird, but does anyone know anything about it? Would be something to look into... |
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| concorde |
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a cable liner can help reduce friction, never heard of it as a "mod" though. if the clutch has been replaced it maybe just the brand of clutch that is lighter on the foot.
i've had a heavy duty clutch feel lighter than a standard clutch because it was a different brand.
_________________ 2nd Place Summernats19 SQ Comp, Street Pro 0-600 Class
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| Soulfire |
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i see. as i said i don't really know anything about clutches and stuff. does anyone know of any brands that make a compatible clutch for the el that has a softer feel thanthe factory one <xr6 has heavy duty and hence pain in the a** afaik>... coz mine can be a prick in traffic...
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| snap0964 |
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You should check the cable out to see if it isn't binding - disconnect it at the bellhousing and at the clutch pedal, and see if it moves relatively easily, if not you should remove and get a newbie, or maybe hang it up and run some lube through it (e.g. breakfree CLP or whatever) - they are self lubing, but this shouldn't hurt being a closed system. Check out how the cable is routed in the engine bay as well.
Also check out the cable adjustment and if it is fouling on the firewall opening. Good opportunity to check out he clutch actuation system in general, because if the cable isn't operating correctly, maybe long term you'll get pedal pin and firewall cracking issues. Also have a talk with a few brake and clutch places - particularly the 'hands on' guys - they'll be able to give you some advice from experience.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| the_scotsman |
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I got my cable replaced a month or 2 ago, bugger me made a huge difference!
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| Soulfire |
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how much it cost?
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| downingj |
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Stop bein' a sook
There's nothing like a big tough, beefy clutch 
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| Soulfire |
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there's nothing wrong with it... but why not make it easier if you can. smoother clutch and a short shifter would be a good combination IMO.
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| falcon_hell |
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downingj wrote: Stop bein' a sook
There's nothing like a big tough, beefy clutch If your clutch is "tough" and "beefy, id seriously take a look at your clutch cable before you f**k a pedal box or your firewall. the trade price on a new cable is around $50 |
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| the_scotsman |
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Yea I was in a hurry, got it repaced for about $70 I think it was...
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| Bluexr6 |
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I have noticed that my clutch cable is starting to melt away were it sits closer to the extractors, I can start to see the metal casing underneath. Should I replace the cable and I was thinking of putting some heat wrap around the cable to stop the heat from destroying more of the cable. Is this a good idea?
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| the_scotsman |
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Yes, most defintaely replace it...I found mine got stiffer over time and didnt really notice it until it was f**k stiff...and I was just lucky that the clutch pedal didnt snap off, as is common on the falcons....might be an idea to heat wrap around it, prevent it happening again, certainly wont hurt.
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