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| Ryan0001 |
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gday
can you replace the whirring standard actuators any different ones without smartlock cracking the s**t? jaycar electronics sell a 4 door power locking kit for $39.95 do ya reckon it will be right if i replace all 4 crap actuators with new different ones from the kit? thanks ryan |
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| Rapier |
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afaik it cant be done, i mean u could replace the actuators i guess, then u would have to have a seperate system to open the doors, which will prob caus smartlock to have a spasm
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| LSD |
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I can't see a reason for it not to work myself, a central locking actuator doesn't seem that complicated a piece of kit to me. I mean, it's pretty much just a solenoid that can be made to lock/unlock the doors on command. So-called "master" actuators are only slightly more complicated in that they have to signal the main controller (in this case, the Body Electronics Module) to lock all the other doors. The controller is where all the real magic is and so long as the replacement actuators physically fit where the old ones did (this would be the kicker I think) and are compatible with the signals (which is highly likely, I can't see a reason for needing anything more than simple logic controls in this situation) in the existing system then it should all go together just fine.
_________________ Team Argon Silver |
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| TS50EB |
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Ok, I can help here because I wanted to use my EB actuators with the AU setup in my EB, but AU and E-series work differently.
E series actuators have 3 wires operating them. 1.power supply 2.up (switched closed in the BEM) 3.down (switched closed in the BEM) -the up and down wires close the cct to make the actuator move in the direction required. The actuators available from Rhino, Jaycar, etc work like AU actuators. There are two wires, the direction of the current dictates with way the actuator moves, up or down, (the direction of current flow is switched). You can get around this by putting relays in (contact Fuzion, he may be able to throw some light on how to do this). I hope this makes sense.
_________________ The car should be called "Frankenstien". EBII GLi skeleton, AU T2 220kw heart, AU2 brain, EF/EL for everything else. |
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| Ryan0001 |
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thanks fellas, ill have a look around and if it all works ill bang up a few pics to show yas
ryan |
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| ndroo |
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OI...why not just use AU actulators??? They should be easy enough to install i think...and they dont go ZZZzzzZZZ when you lock ur doors. Then again the ZZZZzzzZZZ noise does sound pretty "LOCK THE GATES KEEP THE ENEMY OUT" ish....everyone knows ur car is locked lol
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| TS50EB |
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You could use AU ones, they are incorporated in the door latch, and are operated from the interior door handle by cable, not a rod.
So you would have to look at putting the whole AU door latch in. This requires drilling new holes in the door, as the 3 bolts that hold it in place are in different locations. You would need to either find some way of hooking the cable to the E-series door handle, or the E-series rod to the AU latch. Quite possible, just wiring to sort out after the latch is in.
_________________ The car should be called "Frankenstien". EBII GLi skeleton, AU T2 220kw heart, AU2 brain, EF/EL for everything else. |
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| Macca |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ok, I can help here because I wanted to use my EB actuators with the AU setup in my EB, but AU and E-series work differently.
E series actuators have 3 wires operating them. 1.power supply 2.up (switched closed in the BEM) 3.down (switched closed in the BEM) -the up and down wires close the cct to make the actuator move in the direction required. The actuators available from Rhino, Jaycar, etc work like AU actuators. There are two wires, the direction of the current dictates with way the actuator moves, up or down, (the direction of current flow is switched). You can get around this by putting relays in (contact Fuzion, he may be able to throw some light on how to do this). I hope this makes sense. I am interest on why you would want to change the actuators in your EB, I can understand in EF/EL.
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins |
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| TS50EB |
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Because I am running an AUII BEM (smartshield)
AU1 smartlock AU2-3 smartshield BA MK1 - on - not sure
_________________ The car should be called "Frankenstien". EBII GLi skeleton, AU T2 220kw heart, AU2 brain, EF/EL for everything else. |
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| dang |
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Hmmm, some issues you would have to get over here, even with a relay set up.
First, from my experiments trying to diagnose my central locking problems, I discovered the BEM needs to know the state of the doors, so pressing the 'door' button on the keypad or the door lock switch will 'toggle' the state. (see the 'Help, smartlock gone crazy thread') It appears to do this from the drivers door actuator. The extra ground wire enables the actuator to pull the 'lock' wire to ground after a 'lock' signal, and to pull the 'unlock' wire to ground after an 'unlock' signal. This also allows the system to lock all the doors when either the key or the lock button is used to lock the drivers doors. So in short, you need at least one solenoid actuator with an SPDT switch to indicate its position. A check of the Jaycar website shows a master and 3 slave actuators on the four door kit. No further details on the actuators. Secondly, any setup would have to ensure that the slave actuators leave the lock wire open circuit after a lock operation and vice versa. I'll give this some more thought to help out those who think they would like to do this, but I want to keep my locking stock, so I will not be testing any of my thoughts. Cheers, Dang. |
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| dang |
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Hmmm, some issues you would have to get over here, even with a relay set up.
First, from my experiments trying to diagnose my central locking problems, I discovered the BEM needs to know the state of the doors, so pressing the 'door' button on the keypad or the door lock switch will 'toggle' the state. (see the 'Help, smartlock gone crazy thread') It appears to do this from the drivers door actuator. The extra ground wire enables the actuator to pull the 'lock' wire to ground after a 'lock' signal, and to pull the 'unlock' wire to ground after an 'unlock' signal. This also allows the system to lock all the doors when either the key or the lock button is used to lock the drivers doors. So in short, you need at least one solenoid actuator with an SPDT switch to indicate its position. A check of the Jaycar website shows a master and 3 slave actuators on the four door kit. No further details on the actuators. Secondly, any setup would have to ensure that the slave actuators leave the lock wire open circuit after a lock operation and vice versa. I'll give this some more thought to help out those who think they would like to do this, but I want to keep my locking stock, so I will not be testing any of my thoughts. Cheers, Dang. |
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| Ryan0001 |
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thanks for the info dang,
is there a doco or good threads on the site about replacing actuators? ryan |
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| Macca |
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{USERNAME} wrote: thanks for the info dang,
is there a doco or good threads on the site about replacing actuators? ryan Matti did make some references of making a doco for fitting Commonwhore dead lock solenoids to Falcons, but I don't know what ever happened.
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins |
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