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chris1966 |
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Hi everyone.
Sorry if this has been asked a million times before. I have tried to use the search engine and it wont return any results for AU into EA or anything similar. If it does return results it just returns the whole 6 Cylinder Workshop! Anyhow, I have pickup up a complete low kilometer AU engine for $300. For this price I couldn't be bothered fixing the oil leak in the standard engine. I want to slot it into my EAII and was wondering if anyone has done this before. The engine is going to be freshened up and my TO4B fitted. I have had a look and I think the box section brace under the harmonic balance will have to be shifted about 25mm forward. That's an easy mod. I was wondering if any mods are required to clear the sump on the main engine crossmember. I have read that the engine will fit if the EA mounts are used. But I am now under the impression that the bellhousing bolt pattern is different and my 4 Speed Auto wont bolt up. If anyone can shed light on the situation I would appreciate it a lot! And no I'm not worried if I have to buy a new gearbox or anything else. The car is in good condition and I like it. Thanks Chris |
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voxace |
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OK, I've done this.
You are correct about both the sump not clearing, and the bellhousing bolts not lining up correctly. You only have to grind a small section off the sump under the harmonic balancer to make ti fit though. In regards to the bellhousing not lining up, it's onlt the bottom two bolts. You could either use an AU Auto, or dry and drill through and make your own holes. I just left mine without those, but I'm going to get an AU bellhousing soon. |
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chris1966 |
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Thanks voxace. That's a relief. So the sump clears at the rear and only requires mods to the front? Need to get this bit right. Oh....and can you just swap the bellhousings on the BTR boxes? I think I know where a dead AU BTR is so if I can use that bellhousing I'll grab it quick.
Any other pointers? Sorry for all the questions. I'd better search through your threads and see what else I can dig up. Thanks again. Chris Last edited by chris1966 on Sun Jun 04, 2006 3:43 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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twase |
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chris1966 wrote: Thanks voxace. That's a relief. So the sump clears at the rear and only requires mods to the front? Need to get this bit right. Oh....and can you just swap the bellhousings on the BTR boxes? I think I know where a dead AU BTR is so if I can use that bellhousing I'll grap it quick. Yes the AU bell housing will bolt up to the earlier box solving your problem. Grab it while you can.
Any other pointers? Sorry for all the questions. I'd better search through your threads and see what else I can dig up. Thanks again. Chris
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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chris1966 |
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Cool. Thanks for that. Will do!
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voxace |
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Yeah it clears at the rear fine.
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chris1966 |
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That's a relief. I've got a new brace marked out for the front. I'd rather make a new one than grind hell out of the sump. I'm using a 50 x 25 RHS and I'll cut a section out to clear the sump. The cut out will be capped and then welded back in place of the original. Should be easy as I kept the crossmember out of my EB so I'll just do the mod to it and thenswap them over when I put the AU engine in.
Thanks for the help. Chris |
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twase |
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chris1966 wrote: That's a relief. I've got a new brace marked out for the front. I'd rather make a new one than grind hell out of the sump. I'm using a 50 x 25 RHS and I'll cut a section out to clear the sump. The cut out will be capped and then welded back in place of the original. Should be easy as I kept the crossmember out of my EB so I'll just do the mod to it and thenswap them over when I put the AU engine in. Best not grind the rib from the sump on the AU, it may leak from there as it does with mine even if you only take a small amount off.
Thanks for the help. Chris
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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voxace |
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Hrmmmm mine doesn't leak or anything. It's only a small section of rib that's needed to be removed...
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