Has anyone ever had problems with the bearings (and bearing retainer) moving/sliding allowing the axle bearing to destroy itself prematurely because it is not held firmly against the shoulder on the axle. I have had this problem for a number of year and I normally just replace the bearings, but it is starting to annoy me. My last effort lasted about 2 years by correctly shrink fitting the bearing retainer onto the axle. Previouly, the diff experts just pressed them on and they only lasted about 3 months.

With the axles being 30 odd years old, I'm even temped to source some new ones.

Any suggestions?

sounds like ur axles are the prob what car is it in and is it disc or drum

if its not under huge load, try some ball bearing's instead of roller bearings.

Same as what the jap diff uses in the old nissan bluebirds.

If the diff place cant work it out.... why go back?
Try supertrick or another joint!.. Im sure they can fix this problem or at least tell you why it's doing it

The diff/axles are in my XW. It's running XB type rear calipers/disks. It as originally set up with the single deep groove ball bearing per axle. But because of the problems, it was altered it to the wide double bearing (angular contact type) to have a larger surface area for gripping the axle. This, I beieve is the original style setup for the disk rear end.

the disc brake axle use a double roller bearing style axles are prone to failer

A simple and quick fix if the bearing surfaces are the correct diameter ( NOT UNDERSIZED ) then i would be looking at the collers ur pressing on.

If u press the coller on and slightly C**k it it will deform the whole hence not gripping the axle the cortrect pressure

Plumbers use this ICE in a can to freeze pipes up so water doesn't flow thro the pipes when there doing a repair job which u can purchase from REECE Australia , freeze the axle where the bearing and locking coller sit on the axle and heat ONLY the coller and just slip them onto the axle without any force , make sure the bearing and coller seated correctly.

This method doesnt need any PRESS FORCE , and the bearing and coller should just slide on easy

If this fails just use a migwelder and do a few small spot welds once the coller is fitted correctly a common practice amongs many racers to prevent collers from coming off.

Don't do a full weld as it time the bearing will need to be services and the coller will need to be replace also , will make life very difficult if to much weld is applied

Disc brake axle in the XB XC years on the nine inch diffs used to spin bearinga on axle shafts check the shaft diameters with some good quality measure tools before carrying out further repairs to the axle giving u greif

cheers

Thanks for that info FPV_GTp. I actually measured the axle diameter at the bearing area to be 37.02mm This seams about right, and when the collors are heated up they actually slide into position against the bearing very nicely. I even left some weight on the collar during the cooling/shrinking process.

I'll try some of the plumbers ICE next time (if required), but I don't fancy the idea of tacking the collars on with weld because this would be very close to the seal surface. The welding or later grinding may damage this surface creating additional problems.

Just a slight tack in a few spots is all required , its ok there is suffiecent room between the tack weld and the axle seal thats is sitting inside the housing ends.

I repair axles that spin bearings on them , by adding metal on the shaft and then cylindrically grinding them back to there original surface diameter as the disc brake axles are expensive second hand and new even more.

Just a tack weld is sufficent and at a latter stage when u have to remove the bearings u just lathe of the tack welds and repeat the process again

cheers

Ford actually dont recommend replacing the bearing, throw them away and install new ones......

Best method I have seen is to get the collar area spray welded up a few thou to help grip the new one. Welding the shat does work sometimes but weakens it, same as maching a groove to accept a circlip.

hi

Spot welding the collar doesn't weaken the axle at all.

I had to perform several destructive tests on axles i modified for street cars. The tests where performed by ETRS. After welding the axles in several key spots they were put through there paces.

Resplining by means of cold cutting dint weaken the axle end.

Welding ( spray welding ) the scuffed bearing and seal diameters didn't weaken the axle also

Welding the stud pattern holes to make a new stud pattern on the flange didn't weaken the axle either.

Spot welding the bearing collar in several spots radial on the shaft didn't weaken the axle either.

The customers engineering want tests to prove that they were safe for road use on several V8 small car conversions. The cost of the axles and the tests perform was not cheap .

As far as ford saying replace the whole bearing and axle as a unit ??? never heard of this at all but interesting.

Who ever does the axles for ford has to either press fit the bearing/collar to the axle or shrink and heat method the fitment of the bearing/collar to the axle.
No different to what a person would perform in a workshop

If the axle has a fault in it that's another story ( diameter out of round , interference fit not right so on ) .

Then the issue of all the crap bearings/collar kits that are out there in the market place , and remember don't just measure the axle diameter , also measure the collar diameter see if there is sufficient interference fit so the collar does clamp on properly.

And remember the collar could be of inferior quality material. different grades of metals will have different stretch characteristics again coming down to its ability to maintain even clamping force on the axle shaft.
Some collars if u compare them to the original ford fitted ones are smaller in outside diameter and width and not to mention the material they are made out of is a big question mark ????

If the axle diameters are on spec i would be questioning the collars them self ????

Another option is pay a machine shop and have some collars made up with better material and larger dimensions in all areas and also increase the interference fit , if you are not prepared to spot weld the axles


have fun

cheers

Thanks for the info. I like the idea of correctly made collars. I might get some made up. Any idea on what the original sizes are or should be and what material is best suited?