As above... The old slush box in my modded 5.0L is starting to show signs that it wasn't designed to handle a little extra grunt so I'm looking to update or upgrade... Taking into account that I don't won't a manual (dodgy left knee), what is my best option?

6 spd auto from BF? (severe wiring issues? cost?)
Other auto from other model/brand? (wiring, cost)
Upgrade existing box with better internals? (reputable shop? cost?)

whats wrong with your box? mines handling the power pretty well i think, changed the fluid a few months ago. although it does jump into 2nd pretty harsh sometimes with the shift kit off.
does anyone know wat the btr boxes can handle power wise?
are we able to put some of the ba turbo box parts into the btr? i woulda thought the turbo autos would be stronger.

with your box jumping hard in to 2nd, try recalibrating your TPS as your ECU references this when it changes and varies your ramps according to TP.

It's just starting to feel "slushy". Gear changes are no longer crisp and it really bangs into 2nd. What's the procedure for recalibrating the TPS?

yeh, how do u recalibrate ur tps? i dont really wana muck around with anything as my car is running sweet now.
i reakon u should stick with the ur auto box and just look at replacing the weak parts in it - bands etc, maybe cheaper & easier to do unless u are planning on more power?

Call Joe at Crescent,(02 96006229) he built my auto. Pity you are in Vic, as he was pretty good with the price. I would probably look at a larger cooler for the auto, and repair/replace any necessary parts on the stocker box

Pretty sure that'll be the road I go down, it's the logical one after all, but it would still be really nice to just bolt up a BF 6 speed and drive off sideways into the sunset...

BTR's can handle heaps of power, I haven't seen many break due to excessive power, they still last behind worked XR6T's. The problem is maitanence and cooling. Fitting a big cooler (at least A4 size) will help them survive. With a rebuild and a re-calibrated TCU they would be a great box, but Ford's programming (if you can call it that) and (to a lesser extent) BTRE's QA inconsistancies let it down.

DTM Race Transmissions in Geelong know a bit about BTR's, and will do a rebuild capable of handling 600+ BHP for under $3000.

Unfortunately a ZF 6HP26 won't fit in an E-Series without a bigger trans tunnel. You'd also need to make a TCU and program it to work the ZF, which would be a bit of work.

To calibrate the TPS, get a multimeter, and with the ignition turned on, probe the 2 outside wires (I think, theres 3 all up) and check the idle voltage is under 1v. If not, loosen the TPS's and move them around until it is, you might need to bore the holes out on the 2 TPS's to get the voltage right.

Also, doing an ECU diagnostic test may tell you if there is a problem with the trans.

I thought to re calibrate the TPS you had to:

Have engine running
Turn off air con
Leave car in drive
Sit with no throttle for 1 minute
Turn car off to ACC
Leave car in drive still
Sit with full throttle for 1 minute.
Turn car right off.

I was always under the impression that this just helped the ECU by showing it no throttle and WOT.

how the hell would you do that?

That will only work if the TPS is reading under 1v at idle, the ECU will read anything above 1v as cruising speed, rather than idle. What you described is close, but not quite the correct procedure. The following is from BTR's factory tech bulletins.

First, to clear the old setting, KOEO (Key On Engine Off)

1) Select Normal/Power mode - 100% Throttle
2) Select Economy mode - keep 100% throttle
3) 0% throttle.

To teach the ECU where WOT is;

1) Get the car to operating temp, then idle for 60 seconds without touching the throttle.
2) KOEO - Hold the throttle at 100% for 60 seconds.

sorry to do a bit of relative thread mining.



read two lines above. "turn motor off"

and aaron,

so if the TPS is working properly, then you do that to teach the ECU where WOT is?

(lol, look at all the fancy acronyms!! )