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| spidamonkey |
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yeah not good... found out the other day, should be around 150 to drill it out. however theres the chance that they cant and will have to take apart the cylinder.
what are the chances like? has anyone else had this? |
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| twase |
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spidamonkey wrote: yeah not good... found out the other day, should be around 150 to drill it out. however theres the chance that they cant and will have to take apart the cylinder. Had this on the son's VL, got it out by soaking wit WD40 and moving it back and forward a quater turn until it came out. TIP: Before it is completely out check the insulation is not cracked or broken, if so vacuum the area to remove the bits otherwise it falls down the cylinder.
what are the chances like? has anyone else had this?
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| spidamonkey |
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so its a job i can try myself? whats the chances i bust it then lol
 but nah really would i be risking some serious damage if i attempted it?
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| twase |
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Only if you are resigned to getting the head removed then you have nothing to loose. It is risky, if you snap it then there is no alternative but to remove the head and get it drilled out and rethreaded. In my case I had nothing to loose. What happens is the threaded part of the plug that extends into the bore rusts and makes it difficult to remove, hence the forward and backward motion cleans the thread.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| spidamonkey |
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ah ok, so say if i got some wd40 doused it, left it for a bit to soak... i might just be able to save myself some hard earned dosh...
do u have to apply much force? i really cant afford the 1000 dollar bill if i f*ck this up lol. |
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| twase |
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Not too much but more than normal, try tightening it first. If you are in doubt let a mechanic have a go.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| MacGyver |
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Try applying heat to try and crack the rust. If they are going to drill it out apply as much force as you can to se if you can get it to move.
Get a nice tight socket (not k-mart crap, a good quality socket), big breaker bar and just try and move it 1/8 turn back and forth. Then try 1/4 turn, then 1/2 turn then full turn. Just rock it out. Once out it may pay to buy a tap the fits and re tap the plug hole. When you install new plugs apply some heat proof lube to the threads. cheers
_________________ If it doesn't fit, jam it. If that doesn't work use a hammer. - Engineers Motto |
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| colin55 |
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how about a rattle gun?
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| madmax |
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colin55 wrote: how about a rattle gun?
No way!!! Too little control with a rattle gun, your chances of destroying the thread would be greatly increased. Thats why you need to do it slowly by hand.
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| spidamonkey |
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thanks guys ill try giving that a go tommorow, ill let yas know how it goes.
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| twase |
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Good luck, soak it with wd40 tonight and as MacGyver said get some heat into it, run the motor until its warm before you start.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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| KRUPTD |
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If by any chance you snap the ceramic part off the plug you can still try to remove the rest of the plug.I would try putting oil around the plug end and leave it over night.In the morning try using a half inch breaker bar and extension with your spark plug socket and try tightening it up to help unjar the corrosion build up and then loosen the plug.But if you damage the ceramic insulater,use a bit of drift metal or rod and hit the end of the plug a couple of times with the rod and hammer and see if it will loosen.Just also be careful not to strip the thread inside the head.Keep it well lubricated oil or wd40 or wurth rust off.
_________________ COMING SOON,XD WITH A TURBO...CLEVO STYLE |
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| KRUPTD |
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One thing to remeber dont use heat because it will lead to warping in the head and also in the spark plug thred hole.If it doesnt undo just keep soaking it and leave it another day and try again.
_________________ COMING SOON,XD WITH A TURBO...CLEVO STYLE |
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| The Dog |
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If you can't get it out they are pretty easy to drill out and retap or even helicoil without removing the head. Only need to have a good vacuum. Before drilling make sure the piston is at TDC and drill. Then vacuum the bits that got in the cylinder. Put some grease on a sparkplug tap and retap. The grease picks up all the swarf from recutting the thread. Revacuum after just to be sure. Hell of a lot easier than removing the head and even if you gotta buy a spark plug tap still cheaper!
Good Luck! 
_________________ You'll ride a black tornado across the western sky
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