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Split radiator side tank 

 

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 Post subject: Split radiator side tank
Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:32 am 
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Well, certainly wasnt my finest hour :cry:

The engine did not overheat but was subjected to some serious RPM, which suggests the radiator was blocked and could not withstand the pressure, openening a 15cm crack down the passenger side tank.

Im thinking its probably best to drop it off at a local mechanic and have them send it out to get the tank replaced and rod the s**t out of the radiator tubes.

Peoples thoughts on this?

Would also like to hear what this has cost people in the past.

Cheers

Martin H

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:07 am 
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yobboford did this also after his big effort at the burnout comp. I guess 2-3 minutes of rev-limiter would put any radiator to the test.

Rob opted for a new, heavy duty radiator for $300 supply.

Most radiator shops will do flush and new end tanks for ~$150.

Just take it out yourself and drop it in.. save their time, your money..

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:12 am 
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Beauty, about what i was expecting. Lol, this is the last thing i need right now... but no one to blame but myself :!: Angry driving's bad, mmmkay... :evil:

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:41 am 
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do we wanna know what you were doing when it happened?

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:54 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
do we wanna know what you were doing when it happened?


Probably not! Really unlike me to be driving like that but was very upset - very, very, very silly with 300 odd horsepower under the right foot.

Anyways.... found a seller on eBay, based here in SA and can supply brand new in box for $185, free delivery. Depending on quotes for repair this may be a sensible option (would suck replacing one tank only to have the other let go).

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 12:09 pm 
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$185 is a good price for a new one, I doubt you will find repairing yours any cheaper. I got my new one from a radiator place opposite parafield airport, when I went to get it he said I could have a new 4 core one for the same price as the standard 2 core XR8 one because someone cancelled an order, keeps the the engine nice and cool but makes fitting thermos a pain.
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 12:35 pm 
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dont repair not worth it, just replace it, they will rod it out, tell you its still 30% blocked at least and charge you for it anyways, just go new.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 12:44 pm 
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Thanks for the advice guys - appreciated as always.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 6:33 pm 
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as waggin said, i just did this to my rad aswell, i went for a 2 row heavy duty core rad instead of the same as what was in there. the std rad has 1/2" tubes, the one i went for has 5/8" tubes, therefore bigger capacity and better cooling due to larger surface area, cost me $319.00 including gst brand new (no exchange). i could have also gone for a 3 row radiator, but, it has 3 10mm tubes which is actually a little less surface area then the one i got, same price as above.

for any syd people i got this from natrad in moorebank, very helpful and good service.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 6:36 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
as waggin said, i just did this to my rad aswell,


Lol - was yours spectacular as well? Felt like i was watching a nascar race - coolant and s**t everywhere. Then i realised it was me... and that i needed to pull over, lol.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 6:42 pm 
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actually i didnt know i had hurt it till the next morning when i found the puddle in the garage, even drove it home no probs, it was just the off the temp guage torture that did it, was just a slow leak.

bugger, would have liked to see yours go though, lol

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 6:56 pm 
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c'mon, spill..... what happened? (pm me if u want)

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 9:24 am 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
c'mon, spill..... what happened? (pm me if u want)


Lol, well no need to go into reasons why but the key to a great coolant blowout:

Rev limiter in first and hold. Knock auto into second - large venting from BOV. Rev limiter in second, hold. Back off - large venting from BOV. Stomp back on throttle in second, ignite both rear tyres @ 100km/hr (with single spinner). Back off to regain traction, large venting from BOV. Get back on throttle, hit limiter, split radiator tank. Turn on windscreen wiper to remove coolant from windscreen, get off throttle, put gearbox into N, stop car, put gearbox into P, apply handbrake, remove keys. Destroy nearest object and walk home.

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 1:23 pm 
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A while back mine gave way too just because we towed s**t.. It was always blocked and at one stage was blocked 80% with casting sand. Eventually the thing cracked and I got a new 3 core heavy duty radiator for $300 fitted. A lot cheaper than Ford..

 

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