|
| Cooper69s |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Heads and Intake are very well matched, yes. Camshaft is not well matched at all, especially the non-xr and AU1 XR V8's.
Larger intake snorkel is a complete waste of money in my opinion. i've heard different opinions on whether ss inductions snorkels are any good and whether the better factory ones are just as effective, but the one thing i saw on the ss site that looked interesting, was that some of their snorkels (AU XR version?) also come with some sort of 'scoop' arrangement that goes behind the grille to force air into the snorkel - and that looks to me like it could potentially make all the difference... haven't heard actually experiences with that though... and it might be time to do some cam research to work out the kind of profile i'd need too... you made a couple of comments on price - that i wouldn't do it for $1000 - what should i expect to pay for the parts i need to do the job if i do it myself - or how much is reasonable to pay someone to do it all?
_________________ ex owner of a very addictive mildly modified '69 Mini Cooper S - best ET 16.6@80mph
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| banarcus |
|
|||
|
2 words mate: Crane 2030.
Forget the SS snorkel. Waste of money. If you need to spend that sort of money on a intake, then perhaps a pod in a big box setup will do. Nothing wrong with the standard setup, the cam is the one thing in a a explorer 302 that lets the party down. There are people here that have done this and they are the ones to listen to. Donet listen to generic hipo parts people unless they have experience with the 5.0. For them to recommend a larger throttle body and ss intake is silly with the stock cam anyway and a waste of money. Perhaps if you go with the cam job, make sure its compatible with the lpg. If not, then the rollers will be the go. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fairy v8 |
|
||
|
if you decide on the 1.7 roller rockers or a cam do the valve springs because the stock 1s wont hack it
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Cooper69s |
|
|||
|
put the order through today for a crane 2030 + lifters + springs/caps/retainers + rollmaster. should have it by end of next week, installed the week after then get the gas on...
the gas guy also recommended i get the heads skimmed while i'm at it - to get the comp ratio up around 11:1 to work better with the gas - but was going to cost more than i want to spend right now and the cam install guy reckons i'm better off leaving it till later to raise comp properly with pistons instead of making irreversable changes to the heads - sounds reasonable... probably just need to get a shootout dyno reading before i start so i can tell later what difference its all made... anyone know what au 185kw autos usually do on a dyno?
_________________ ex owner of a very addictive mildly modified '69 Mini Cooper S - best ET 16.6@80mph
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Walker |
|
|||
|
You should be looking around the 130 rwkw mark, give or take of course.
You'll have to do more than skimming to get upto 11:1. What did the parts end up setting you back? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| EBTS50 |
|
|||
|
so a 2030 crane is the way to go? is it worth geting the heads ported while there off? and how much dose that cost? cheers Duff
_________________ Ba Stock As A Rock |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Cooper69s |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: You should be looking around the 130 rwkw mark, give or take of course. You'll have to do more than skimming to get upto 11:1. What did the parts end up setting you back? yeah thats what the guy installing the cam said - reckoned that shaving the head wouldn't do it, and even if it got close the heads would be pretty much useless to anyone else if i ever wanted to get rid of them... parts came to just under $1100 {USERNAME} wrote: so a 2030 crane is the way to go? is it worth geting the heads ported while there off? and how much dose that cost? cheers Duff
apparently the 2 best option were the 2030 and 2031. from what i've read on here and heard from others the 2031 is a nicer setup but needs 1.7:1 rr's which didn't fit the budget right now so went the 2030 with sounds like a good setup anyway... we'll see i'm not taking the heads off, but i suppose if you did it might be worth porting them...
_________________ ex owner of a very addictive mildly modified '69 Mini Cooper S - best ET 16.6@80mph
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xr8ute |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: put the order through today for a crane 2030 + lifters + springs/caps/retainers + rollmaster. should have it by end of next week, installed the week after then get the gas on...
I reckon you'll be pretty happy with that decision 
Be prepared that you might need different length pushrods (usually longer if anything). You wont know what length you need until the cam is in and you can measure with an adjustable pushrod. I kept the stock pushrods, and made up the difference with adjustable rockers. The geometry checked out OK for me going this way. What valvesprings did you end up buying? |
||
| Top | |
||
| fairy v8 |
|
||
|
ive just cc,d my gt40p,s they varied from 62 -64 cc,s took them all out to 64 shaved 20 thou off the heads which i think it was 60ccs they ended up at which got my compression to9.4:1 to get to 11:1 you would have no chamber left at 9.4 my piston to valve clearance was just right wouldnt have wanted to take any more off thats using felpro gasket .039 i think even with only .4 :1 cr increase you can really feel the extra torque, and the cam helps too if you go to 112 lobe seperation as in mine , iwent comp cams but i think crane lobe sep is the same lobe sep
the cam just makes them come alive 
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Cooper69s |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: I reckon you'll be pretty happy with that decision
Be prepared that you might need different length pushrods (usually longer if anything). You wont know what length you need until the cam is in and you can measure with an adjustable pushrod. I kept the stock pushrods, and made up the difference with adjustable rockers. The geometry checked out OK for me going this way. What valvesprings did you end up buying? i'm assuming the people installing the cam will know if the pushrods need to be replaced... what's a set of them cost? just went for the crane recommended springs - 99841 i think was the item code... just can't wait to get this all done. the cam guys told me to expect it to be nearly undriveable until it gets tuned properly with the gas. is that right? something else i read suggested the computer should work ok with it pretty much straight away. not that it really matters since it will be going from the cam install straight to the gas place but it might be nice to get a proper feel for it running on petrol to be able to compare it to the lpg.
_________________ ex owner of a very addictive mildly modified '69 Mini Cooper S - best ET 16.6@80mph
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xr8ute |
|
||
|
I dont know about gas, but its fine on petrol. I was driving mine to work everyday for about 12 months without any sort of tune.
You may want to make sure the people installing the cam will check it. If the pushrods are too short, then you will have a heap of valvetrain noise, and will hammer the s**t out of your (stock stamped steel) rockers. A replacement set of pushrods would be around 100-150. Or you can spend 250-300 on a set of thicker chrome-moly .080" wall blah blah pushrods. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Cooper69s |
|
|||
|
if it runs on petrol thats good -i'm not really concerned about the gas because its getting tuned for it as part of the install, but will need to run on petrol for the short time between the cam install and the gas being done.
wouldn't mind getting it dynoed again in between those 2 installs as well maybe... i'll at least have to get it dynoed how it is now, maybe also see how it is at the drags now that they've just opened again after being closed for winter...
_________________ ex owner of a very addictive mildly modified '69 Mini Cooper S - best ET 16.6@80mph
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Cooper69s |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: You should be looking around the 130 rwkw mark, give or take of course.
pretty close... dynoed yesterday at 136.8 then had a couple of hours to spare so went for a run at the drags - only had time for 2 runs, did 15.07 and 15.03 if only i'd done .04 better would've been a 14 and that just sounds so much better  but i'll just have to see how it all goes after the cam and gas are done...
the guys installing the cam are saying that they strongly recommend doing rr's as well - my budget's getting stretched now since i'm already looking at over $1K for the install (including changing the valve springs - they said that added a fair bit to it) - that's more than i expected it to cost but checked a couple of other places and they were about the same. pushed for time now needs to be installed within the next week or so. are the rr's really necessary or should a 2030 be ok with the standard rockers?
_________________ ex owner of a very addictive mildly modified '69 Mini Cooper S - best ET 16.6@80mph
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Walker |
|
|||
|
Yeah a bit involved doing them on the car, but i had it down pat on the Clevo and crossflows.
I done all valve stem seals and springs on the Clevo in my XD in under an hour start to finish. 6 cyl stem seals in about 40 mins. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xr8ute |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: are the rr's really necessary or should a 2030 be ok with the standard rockers?
If it where mine, I would be constantly worried about braking a rocker and becoming stranded somewhere. The other thing is valvetrain flex. I haven't measured deflection with the std rockers, but I would almost guarantee that more of that lobe profile/lift will be transferred to the valve with stiffer aftermarket rockers than the std stamped steel jobbies. I completely understand about limited budget though.....there is always the next thing worth changing, but you've got to stop the spending at some point. I only wish I had of originally spent the extra for double valve springs, it might of saved me from damaging the original GT40P's on my engine 
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 35 guests |
