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| voxace |
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My front left hand door is locking, but not unlocking. The locks don't chuck a wobbly or anything, and the "lock snipper" moves up and down correctly.
I'm thinking that there's not quite enough range of motion, because If i pull the lock up it unlocks the door fine. I replaced the actuator anyway, and it didn't do s**t. Does anyone know how I can fix this, it's kind of annoying? |
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| snap0964 |
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More detail:
Won't unlock properly by keyfob ??? Will it unlock properly using the key (I'm assuming your EF still has the LH lock cyl) ??? Have you also tried it by removing the snipper button ??? I'll agree with you that it's probably a range of movement issue.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| voxace |
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It'll unlock using the lock barrel and key.
Won't unlock using the keyfob, even though the snipper button moves up. If I pull it up a bit more, then it'll unlock. I had the door trim off, and snipper button removed and it still wouldn't unlock properly. That was when I replaced the actuator, and it didn't help things. |
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| stomper |
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ok some people get confused here. when you say actuator do you mean the chunk of metal that everything connects to or the white motor?
If you replaced the bit of metal (the actuator) then the only other thing is the motor. Replace the motore before anything else. If you want i may have a motor here if you are interested but it might not have a loom 
also try the WD40 trick on the actuator...that always helps
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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| voxace |
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Yeah, I replaced the 'white motor'.
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| stomper |
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voxace wrote: Yeah, I replaced the 'white motor'.
Get the metal thing. Its called the actuator..but it depends where you go...stobie pole or telegraph pole....duma or blanket....branch brounch.. But before you go d**k around and spending money just spray some WD - 40 in it cause that made a big difference with my car. The motor wasnt strong enough to lock or unlock the door so i used wd 40 and it was all ok.
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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| voxace |
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Are you talking about where the handle & lock rods join together, near the latch?
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| snap0964 |
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I'd say he means the lock assy may be clogged with dust/old lubricant, etc.
So drenching the internal lock assy may help free it up. There may be some wear in the lock assy, but I wouldn't have thought the assy would wear more than the drivers side, but I guess you never know. You could experiment with the actuator link rod, i.e. make a similar one from some coat hanger wire (should be strong enough for experimenting) and adjust it and see if it fixes the problem, then alter the rod itself and fit it. Another option may be to elongate the actuator mounting holes,and see if adjusting the actuator position helps. I'd leave the actuator/rod adjusting experimenting as a last resort if nothing else works.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| voxace |
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Thanks guys, I'll try both those suggestions.
Very tempting to go get the jaycar kit now lol... |
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| XR6 EF |
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[quote="voxace"]Thanks guys, I'll try both those suggestions.
Very tempting to go get the jaycar kit now lol...[/quote its worth it,not that hard but definately worth it with the constant hassle the ford locks give us |
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| snap0964 |
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I've done both my cars, no regrets at all.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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