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| mjstafford |
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{USERNAME} wrote: mate the subs are pretty good champ, i run 2 of them the y are KFC-3009's from memory, they are pretty cool subs, not absoulte bass crunchers but if your after some nice quality punchy bass with the right amp and tuning they go pretty hard (better than pioneer's imo). for $250 second hand is an absolute max, i would hagel the price down. Make sure the box is sealed if its not ported and that the subs move with pressure behind them and without any scratching noise.
i pulled a 134db in a LWB ford maverick with my 2 before i got my falcon! Hey mate, can you give me some specs on the sub? Mainly curious about the RMS so that I can determine the type of amp I would need to power them both. |
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| Big Kev |
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To get the most from these subs running off a single mono block amplifier you'll need the amp to handle at least 800w RMS nominally.
Im pretty sure like Kenwood Mavs' has said these were W3009's ... which were 800w Peak so round 350-400w RMS nominal output. Wired in parrallel to provide a 1 ohm load or in series to achieve a 4ohm load...so remeber that when matching up an amp as alot either wont run at 1 ohm or claim to but don't do it very well at all.
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| mjstafford |
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{USERNAME} wrote: To get the most from these subs running off a single mono block amplifier you'll need the amp to handle at least 800w RMS nominally.
Im pretty sure like Kenwood Mavs' has said these were W3009's ... which were 800w Peak so round 350-400w RMS nominal output. Wired in parrallel to provide a 1 ohm load or in series to achieve a 4ohm load...so remeber that when matching up an amp as alot either wont run at 1 ohm or claim to but don't do it very well at all. I don't know much about car audio, but from what I understand, a monoblock amp only has one output - are you suggesting that I hook both subs, (i.e. 4 wires, 2 + and 2 -) to the one terminal? So essentially I would have two wires in the + and two in the - ? Also, are you saying that I do want a 1 ohm load? (I don't really understand much about this - yes I did read the technical doco but still lol) So basically, you're suggesting that I find a monoblock amp that can put out at least 800RMS (but I assume not much more than that) and hook both subs to the one output? Sorry, probably pretty noob questions but meh, that's what I'm on the site for. |
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| mjstafford |
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Is {DESCRIPTION} the kind of thing you're talking about?
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| Big Kev |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Is {DESCRIPTION} the kind of thing you're talking about?
Geez you boys love ya Jaycar gear ...hehe just kidding mate  .. um yeh this is along the sorta lines you should be looking at...remeber that the rating they show this amp to output at 1ohm...is 820w RMS ... @ 14.4V...so when the car is running and being charged. When the car isnt charging ie its off or off with the accessories on...will only output round 680w RMS total....
When talking ohms and all that jargon simply put, the lower this number the less resistance it equates to between the sub and amp delivering power to that sub....hence why the lower the resistance value the higher the power output....
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| Big Kev |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: To get the most from these subs running off a single mono block amplifier you'll need the amp to handle at least 800w RMS nominally. Im pretty sure like Kenwood Mavs' has said these were W3009's ... which were 800w Peak so round 350-400w RMS nominal output. Wired in parrallel to provide a 1 ohm load or in series to achieve a 4ohm load...so remeber that when matching up an amp as alot either wont run at 1 ohm or claim to but don't do it very well at all. I don't know much about car audio, but from what I understand, a monoblock amp only has one output - are you suggesting that I hook both subs, (i.e. 4 wires, 2 + and 2 -) to the one terminal? So essentially I would have two wires in the + and two in the - ? Also, are you saying that I do want a 1 ohm load? (I don't really understand much about this - yes I did read the technical doco but still lol) So basically, you're suggesting that I find a monoblock amp that can put out at least 800RMS (but I assume not much more than that) and hook both subs to the one output? Sorry, probably pretty noob questions but meh, that's what I'm on the site for. Before running at 1ohm its good to normally find out how the gear u intend to run handles and whether it lasts runing at low impedences like 1ohm, 0.5ohm etc...the lower impedence/resistance value by being lower allowing more power thru will mean more heat will be created...this being the enemy of most electrical equipment....so just have to be careful.....normaly running hardware at 1ohm or lower is fine if you arent hammering the system all the time and so on. (Thats just a general rule of thumb tho). Now what i meant by wiring the system in parallel for a 1ohm load ... I will post up some pics....also showing the series setup for a 4ohm load....this is only applicable when running 2x DVC(Dual voice coil) woofers - each coil rated at 4 ohm connected, all connected via a single amplifier speaker channel. So.....
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| mjstafford |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Is {DESCRIPTION} the kind of thing you're talking about? Geez you boys love ya Jaycar gear ...hehe just kidding mate .. um yeh this is along the sorta lines you should be looking at...remeber that the rating they show this amp to output at 1ohm...is 820w RMS ... @ 14.4V...so when the car is running and being charged. When the car isnt charging ie its off or off with the accessories on...will only output round 680w RMS total....When talking ohms and all that jargon simply put, the lower this number the less resistance it equates to between the sub and amp delivering power to that sub....hence why the lower the resistance value the higher the power output.... Ok, I think I get what you're saying. So after reading what you have said and pyro's tech docos on this stuff, basically I would need to find an amp that has (something like) 1ohm 800w RMS @ 13.8V. Could I assume that a higher RMS rating running on 1 ohm (e.g. 1000w RMS) @ 14.4V could output close to what I need, or would it be better to discover the 13.8v power ratings? Also, if it's not too much trouble, could you show me how I'm meant to wire up the subs? I didn't think there would be more than one option considering there is only one output on a monoblock amp. But then again, maybe I'm totally off track lol. |
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| mjstafford |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Also, if it's not too much trouble, could you show me how I'm meant to wire up the subs? I didn't think there would be more than one option considering there is only one output on a monoblock amp. But then again, maybe I'm totally off track lol.
Sorry, nevermind that, I didn't realise you had posted lol. |
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| Big Kev |
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Here ya go dude sorry had to duck out for a sec...and yeh 13.8V measurement is gonna give a better indication...1000w RMS at 14.4V is gonna be a better option...as @ 12V works out to a lil over 833w RMS....so youd achieve the most from ya subs...thats a very basic measurement tho as it doesnt take into acoount cable lenght and size, amplifier effiecieny etc but its a fair guestimate to guage off....just get what u can afford but dont skimp to save a few $$$
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| mjstafford |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Here ya go dude sorry had to duck out for a sec...and yeh 13.8V measurement is gonna give a better indication...1000w RMS at 14.4V is gonna be a better option...as @ 12V works out to a lil over 833w RMS....so youd achieve the most from ya subs...thats a very basic measurement tho as it doesnt take into acoount cable lenght and size, amplifier effiecieny etc but its a fair guestimate to guage off....just get what u can afford but dont skimp to save a few $$$
Mate that's awesome, thanks a lot for that. I'm thinking of going to cash converters soon to get the subs - going to try and rant on about them being stolen while the last minute christmas shopping is happening and they're packed (although probably not as much now because I just woke up and they're closing soon but MEH). |
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| Big Kev |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Here ya go dude sorry had to duck out for a sec...and yeh 13.8V measurement is gonna give a better indication...1000w RMS at 14.4V is gonna be a better option...as @ 12V works out to a lil over 833w RMS....so youd achieve the most from ya subs...thats a very basic measurement tho as it doesnt take into acoount cable lenght and size, amplifier effiecieny etc but its a fair guestimate to guage off....just get what u can afford but dont skimp to save a few $$$ Mate that's awesome, thanks a lot for that. I'm thinking of going to cash converters soon to get the subs - going to try and rant on about them being stolen while the last minute christmas shopping is happening and they're packed (although probably not as much now because I just woke up and they're closing soon but MEH). ok lol well good luck dude...hope it all works out and they still run like new ... lemme know if ya need a hand with any more info etc 
_________________ For Sale: 25 Farad Rockford Fosgate Competition Series Carbon Cap, more to come - pm me if interested |
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| mjstafford |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Here ya go dude sorry had to duck out for a sec...and yeh 13.8V measurement is gonna give a better indication...1000w RMS at 14.4V is gonna be a better option...as @ 12V works out to a lil over 833w RMS....so youd achieve the most from ya subs...thats a very basic measurement tho as it doesnt take into acoount cable lenght and size, amplifier effiecieny etc but its a fair guestimate to guage off....just get what u can afford but dont skimp to save a few $$$ Mate that's awesome, thanks a lot for that. I'm thinking of going to cash converters soon to get the subs - going to try and rant on about them being stolen while the last minute christmas shopping is happening and they're packed (although probably not as much now because I just woke up and they're closing soon but MEH). ok lol well good luck dude...hope it all works out and they still run like new ... lemme know if ya need a hand with any more info etc Cheers mate, will do, you've been a great help - Merry Christmas! |
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