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| fiftyone |
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was told by a radiator mob that the pressure caps on i6's are a little too agressive for the system and im thinking about a lower rated one anyway. anyone else swapped it out?
and the other thing is im loosing a little bit of coolant somewhere (not headgasket!) and im pritty sure its around the thermo housing and the top rad pipe. was told by the same group that the trick is taking the cover off and resurfacing the bottem because they are very prone to warping. done by rubbing the bottom on some concrete. anyone else had a crack? Cheers
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| fiftyone |
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bump?
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| arm79 |
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I think that radiator mobs should stick to what they do best... fixing radiators.
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| fiftyone |
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whats the advantage then of a higher rated cap other then to stop a little bit of coolant escaping in hot weather?
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| arm79 |
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Ford have hot tested these cars harder than we ever can, and the seemed to have decided the cap specs they picked were good. Hotter than what central Vic can get.
I've said before I've had my car in extreemes of temperature in Melbourne, towing with a carload of people and the aircon on high. Never overheated. Never lost a drip of water. I think it comes down to how well one maintains their cooling system. If you dont maintain it, it will f**k you over in return. Obviously, using mine as an example, if its well maintained, it wont cause a problem with whatever gets thrown at it. |
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| fiftyone |
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fair enough,
cheers
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| madmax |
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As far as the thermostat housing problem. What you have been told is correct. The surfaces can be warped, and being as they rely on the rubber ring to seal they do need to be flat. However rubbing them on concrete is NOT the answer, who says the concrete is flat! what you need is some 180grit wet-dry taped to a flat steel plate. Then using some WD40 or similar, rub both surfaces till they are nice and flat. You will need to take the bottom thermostat housing off as well.
Even then I still use a smear of selastic to seal this joint.
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| vibr8n |
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yes concrete isn't generally the machinists tool of choice.
you can also just wrap emery paper around a flat file & use that untill all the pitting is gone & you have a nice SMOOTH finish. how smooth was the 'concrete finished' gasket face ?
_________________ crow cam,cai,exaust,bbm,190 reg & el injectors,xr6 interior,guages,white cluster,pioneer/mtx stereo,big boot install w.i.p, 17"rims,koni/pedders shocks&springs with nolathane re-bush,ssv kit,stainless inserts,clear lights,t5 & short shifter,chardonay/pearl paint |
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| fiftyone |
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i know an exhaust fitter and three performance engine builders and they all do it.
is it the RIGHT way? well...... it A way
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| vibr8n |
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well theres 4 people i wouldn't be taking my car to.... if anyone i was trusting my car with put anything on the ground at all i owuld tell them to punch it clean up their a holes.
i'm asking how did it look when it was done ? like the inside of a crunchie ?
_________________ crow cam,cai,exaust,bbm,190 reg & el injectors,xr6 interior,guages,white cluster,pioneer/mtx stereo,big boot install w.i.p, 17"rims,koni/pedders shocks&springs with nolathane re-bush,ssv kit,stainless inserts,clear lights,t5 & short shifter,chardonay/pearl paint |
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| fiftyone |
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the exhaust fitter flattens the headers of it and gets an old grinder disc and gives it a quick 1 2 with that.
think about it, most concrete is pritty smooth. and its not like they're going to put a cylinder head on the floor and scrub it to shave it or something. and it usually doesn't turn out too bad. i think the main idea is to scrub off old gaskets and to use the concrete as a big piece of sand paper. it'd be a dam sight finer then some of the sand paper you can buy. and im not pissy about this. to quickly flaten a thermo housing its ok, and something else to finish. but i wouldn't do it on the manifold or something like that
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| madmax |
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Well please yourself, its your car. I certainly wouldn't be using concrete to shape two mating surfaces.
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