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| Timmeh |
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Kit wrote: Timmeh wrote: To start with I got an idling problem which at least once has stalled the engine. It fluctuates and has a flat spot at low rpms. Anywhere from 400 to 1200rpm idle. If the idle was good a couple of weeks ago, and nobody has messed with the idle screw setting. then it souldn't be that. I had my engine stalling on startup last week and I had no leaks or anything, everything plugged in. The revs would drop, and it would cough when accelerating from cold. I popped the bonnet, removed the entire ICS, sprayed throttle body cleaner into it and emptied it out. Moved the big black Map plug (I think it is, on fire wall near vaccume hoses on passenger side), moved it up and down to get a good connection. ICS was clean anyway, but all this did the trick. No more cold start issues. Lucky this time I guess. Try that as an experiment. Also spray some Nulon Throttle Body Cleaner around vaccume hoses and vaccume manifold area with engine going, spray around air intake connections and at throttle body. The spray is a good investment, the engine will rev up when there is a vaccume leak. All this I'm sure you've either done or heard a hundred times before, but it can still be just that, it tends to creep up and surprise you when you don't expect it.  Thanks for the reply. I checked all the vacuum hoses and they seem fine to me. I've already cleaned the ICS but no luck. I played with the plug and it seemed to fix it for about 10 seconds. Idle sat at 750 rock steady but then it fluctuated and no amount of fidling with the plug did anything. Cheers anyway any help is appreciated. |
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| Timmeh |
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e-falcon wrote: The Nulon won't really work, fuel additives rarely do much for your injecters! I used to use them. When my car had problems I paid my old mechanic $250 for a complete fuel system clean, including on car injector cleaning. It still ran like s**t so I found a new mechanic who pulled the injectors off & called a mobile injector cleaner in to do them. this guy said they were some of the dirtyest injectors he'd seen. I was lectured for a good 15 minutes about on car injector cleaners when I picked the car up, & the results spoke for themselves.
I'll try and find a mobile injector cleaner. It cant hurt to get them cleaned even if that isnt the problem. Cheers |
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| Kit |
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Timmeh wrote: e-falcon wrote: The Nulon won't really work, fuel additives rarely do much for your injecters! I used to use them. When my car had problems I paid my old mechanic $250 for a complete fuel system clean, including on car injector cleaning. It still ran like s**t so I found a new mechanic who pulled the injectors off & called a mobile injector cleaner in to do them. this guy said they were some of the dirtyest injectors he'd seen. I was lectured for a good 15 minutes about on car injector cleaners when I picked the car up, & the results spoke for themselves. I'll try and find a mobile injector cleaner. It cant hurt to get them cleaned even if that isnt the problem. Cheers Still get the throttle body spray though. A small hole is easily missed. I had the biggest friggin holes in my intake manifold gasgets I'd ever seen, and the firewall end of the manifold, on top and somemore that were out of sight. I found out by accident when I started it and put my finger down there to check my hoses. I could hear this hissing air as my finger rubbed over the holes in the gasget. It was absolutely rooted. Just touching broke the gasget more and the holes got bigger and the idle quality was horrible and lumpy, surging, coughing when driving off. I replaced it, and it all the troubles went away. So get a torch, and scope the bugger out of that gasget, and get some spray and spray anthing to do with the intake, hoses, gasgets, all the hardware etc. Then you can discount it and look for something else. |
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| Timmeh |
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Well I took the car to Ford and as it turned out the idle and flat spot problem was a dirty and sticking throttle body. Thank f**k for that. I thought it was gonna be expensive.
I think I'm gonna blame the K&N filter for that. I've heard that the oil or whatever that soaks the membrane for filtering also gets in the air intake charge and will eventually gum up the idle speed controller or the throttle body. So I'm gonna be taking mine out. The door actuator was changed so now thats working but they cant find whats wrong with the cruise control. They said it was a wiring fault after they replaced the buttons and that didnt fix it so they put mine back on and are now trouble shooting the wiring system for that. Troubles are almost over. Phewww |
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| kermey |
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what did they slag ya 4 that??
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| Timmeh |
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Find out tomorrow because they are still fixing the cruise control.
I'll let you know how much as long as it aint an embarasing price hehe 
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| Timmeh |
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Well apparently the cruise control did work fine it was a clutch friction point problem which engaged the clutch switch for the cruise control. The clutch is excessively heavy.
Ford are going to replace the clutch and probably skim the flywheel. They said if I kept going with it it would have cracked the pedal box and that will be excessively expensive as opposed to the excessively expensive clutch fix.....jezzus. They are right that the clutch is very heavy but I got used to it. I only noticed it when I drove a different car that had a normal or light clutch. I guess while I'm at it I should get the synchro for 3rd replaced. If its gonna cost me a packet whats a few hundred extra dollars. HOLY CRAP I need overtime at work now. How long is Fords warranty on work they do on your car? I god damn need a warranty now. I dont know whether to laugh or cry. |
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| smoke_ |
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you definitely want the flywheel machined, or your clutch life will be reduced.
It's not that expensive to repair the gearbox, just don't get it repaired through ford. i had a t5 in my xf, i took it out and sent it to a gearbox place, they fixed 1st/2nd/3rd/4th (rough gearchanges and 4th-3rd wouldn't work) for $425
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
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| Nicko |
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timmeh the k & N is only a problem with the isc if you over oil it, you are meant to lightly oil it not drown it, if you drown it you will ahve excess oil running into your throttle boy giving you the problem you had
_________________ Nicko |
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| Timmeh |
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Neo_nick wrote: timmeh the k & N is only a problem with the isc if you over oil it, you are meant to lightly oil it not drown it, if you drown it you will ahve excess oil running into your throttle boy giving you the problem you had
I havent oiled it since I got it. I'm still getting rid of it. You hardly have to oil them. Instructions said every 50,000miles, which is over 75,000ks. I'm not a big fan of them anymore. Must be a better way to filter the air and get more airflow over standard paper. |
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| KTASTRPHE |
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Timmeh wrote: They are right that the clutch is very heavy but I got used to it. I only noticed it when I drove a different car that had a normal or light clutch.
Yeah I had a heavy duty clutch kit put in it when the thrust bearing went in it about 18 months ago - it was heavier after that... |
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| Timmeh |
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OK cool, thanks KTASTRPHE. I'm keeping all the spare parts so if there is nothing wrong with it I'll sell it or keep it as spare. They said the clutches in the XRs are a bit tougher than the standard GL but not as tough as the one you put in. They said the pedal box is under stress with it though so maybe thats something to think about for others who want a tough clutch.
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12.06@120MPH
