Yep that is the CAS. Mine was gunked up very badly. If you can see the metal sensor inside the plastic sheath then your is clean.

Check the resistance is 300-400Ohms.

Hooked up with ignition on make sure you have 1-2V at each terminal.

Reinstall. While cranking the volts should be 0.5-1.5V AC. Idling they should be 2-5V AC.

cheers
Scott

What have you checked so far.

Basically it is going to be either Fuel, Spark or Compression related. Have you done a compression check yet? Do that first as it rules out a lot of very bad things (head gasket, burnt valves, rings, cracked head, etc).

Next would be to see what kind of spark you have. Pull each lead and using an old plug with the gap widened to 10mm see if it can spark. That will tell you if it is ignition related. If all good put a timing light on each lead and watch the consistency of spark. See if it really jumps around a lot on idle.

If all those pass then it is fuel related.

cheers
Scott

Hopefully I can rule out nasty damage to the rest of the engineas its a tough rebuild with only 20k on it.

So far I'd pulled off the leads one at a time, the first 3 jump a very weak spark, only when right next to the plug vs the back 3 which jump a spark from 1cm away.
You'd think that narrows it down to an ignition sorta problem ??

Theres a noticable smell around the throttle body, like a sweet sort of petrol smell but thats probably effect rather than cause of running on 3 cyl ?

Ok, hook up a timing light and see how stable the timing is at idle. Mine jumped all over the place. That pointed to the computer side of things.

Did you check the CAS with a multimetre?

cheers
Scott