The gas tank on my van is out of date so i'm looking for the cheapest and easiest way to get it legal. It appears to be a 4 valve although the first valve seems to be blanked off.

Is the area circled in red the manual cut off? does the valve on the far right (filler?) have something similar or does it only allow gas to flow in?

how do i remove the tank? The pipes are copper and wouldnt be easy to remove from the housing so i assume i unscrew the 4 tamper proof screws (yellow) and seperate the housing from the tank?

Being a 4 valve i believe the tank will be expensive to recertify, am i better off just buying a newer tank? if so does the new tank have to be a 4 valve or can I go 3? will the new tank attatch to my existing plumbing or will i need to get the lines modified/rerun?

Is there a difference between tanks for inside the car and ones for underneath? Are all tanks roughly the same size (ie will any 90l tank fit into my mounting brackets)?

Has anyone put a car over the pits in WA with a gas system installed from Victoria? Will the Vic. alternative fuels plaque be ok or does it need to be recertified in WA?

and if you've gotten to the end of that and still remember what i was talking about at the beginning you are doing better than me

-- mike

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Stick with that tank mate and get it tested.

That's a 4 valve tank, then you have what's called a multi valve, they basically have the inlet, outlet and guage all in one unit.... 4 Valve are MUCH better in the way you can use different kinds of guages, and they're also cheaper to have tested.

Drive it and run it out of LPG, undo the 2 copper lines and follow the loom for the lock off and disconnect it (Don't undo any of the valves in the tank).
Undo the tank brackets, as you remove the tank you can slide the copper lines out and leave them hang.

The red circle is the shut off valve, turn it off.... Don't undo the yellow screws lol.

The 2 copper pipes will undo easily.

I will second Walker, stick with that tank, it will probably cost you the same to get it tested and fitted with a relief valve as what a multi valve will cost alone.

You can understand the cost of a multi valve as it has everything combined into one, cheaper for original tank manufacture but they are far more unreliable and harder to diagnose for problems or repair.

OK, I called around getting quotes on recertifying a while ago (before i actually knew what i had) and for some reason i thought 4 valves were more expensive.

The 4 valve sounds like what im after because i also wanted to replace the sender with one that matches my petrol sender resistance.

The car isnt licensed atm, and it still has half a tank, can i just close the valve and remove it while its full? what about the pipe on the far right? does that need to be sealed or something?