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| rallyboy77 |
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Hi Guys,
Decided to replace the fluid in the Falcon today, looks like dirty water! So I followed the typical procedure, removed fluid from resoviour and replace with new fluid. Then started at the rear left, open nipple, pedal down, close nipple, pedal up. Problem is everytime I open the nipple the fluid in the pipe returns to the caliper. Got my girlfriend to start pressing before I opened... no help. So I thought my girlfriend was doing something wrong  and I got one of the one man bleeding kits... still no luck. Sometimes it is hard to press the pedal down and other times it will just drop to the floor (with the nipple wide open). I tried with the ignition on as well. I must be missing something as I've never had a problem bleeding brakes before 
Now the (!) light on the dash is on (pressure differential failure?) and the pedal is very spongy... what a way to waste an arvo, please help! Jez |
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| xbcoupe351 |
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Before you open the nipple you need to pump the pedal a few times, hold pressure on it, open nipple, let the pedal sink (but not all the way to the floor as you may damage the seals in the master cylinder if it is worn), close the nipple, pump the pedal up again and repeat until clean fluid comes through. The light has come on because you have sucked air into the system and the spongy pedal feel is the air compressing.
_________________ THERE'S NOTHING SO GREAT AS A THUMPING V8 |
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| snap0964 |
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You don't mention if you've tried bleeding from another bleeder, e.g. rear RHS. If not see if there is a difference.
If you haven't bled the system for a long time, there may be crap buildup in the bleeder nipple holes. So you'll need to remove them and put a drill piece through them (by hand). Grab some hose pinchers from Supercrap Auto or where ever, to limit your fluid loss.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| rallyboy77 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Before you open the nipple you need to pump the pedal a few times, hold pressure on it, open nipple, let the pedal sink Ok that makes sense, thanks I'll give that a try today. {USERNAME} wrote: The light has come on because you have sucked air into the system
Out of interest how does the light work? |
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| rallyboy77 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: You don't mention if you've tried bleeding from another bleeder, e.g. rear RHS. If not see if there is a difference.
Yeah I pulled the bleed nipple of first thing to check it out, all good. |
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| rallyboy77 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Before you open the nipple you need to pump the pedal a few times, hold pressure on it, open nipple, let the pedal sink
Tried it, no luck. I think the master cylinder may be damaged. A week ago I got in the car and the pedal sunk to the floor, I pumped it a few times and it seemed to be ok... I thought it needed a bleed but maybe it is worse than that. J |
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| grumblebum04 |
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After closing nipple SLOWLY bring pedal back up as just letting it come straight up can allow air to bypass calliper/master cylinder seals.
Pump pedal and hold down, release nipple, close nipple, slowly allow pedal to come up, pump again,.....next wheel....next ...next...then go round again.
_________________ The thunder of .05 will echoe around Bathurst for ever. |
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| xbcoupe351 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: The light has come on because you have sucked air into the system Out of interest how does the light work? There are two pressure sensors (from memory there at the master cylinder) one for each side of the braking system if the pressure difference in each side is out of spec it will turn the light on.
_________________ THERE'S NOTHING SO GREAT AS A THUMPING V8 |
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| xbcoupe351 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I think the master cylinder may be damaged. A week ago I got in the car and the pedal sunk to the floor, I pumped it a few times and it seemed to be ok... I thought it needed a bleed but maybe it is worse than that.
J Check if there is signs of brake fluid running down the brake booster (paint will be peeling off) This will indicate leaking master cylinder. Also check each wheel for leaking calipers.
_________________ THERE'S NOTHING SO GREAT AS A THUMPING V8 |
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| sexyr6 |
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being an ABS system there is a special way to bleed it, it can be a real head f$#k... a ford service centre for advice would be the go...
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| Happy |
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the only thing with ABS is you need to do the longest wheel first and work back to the shortest ... drivers rear, passenger rear, drivers front, passengers front.
_________________ Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
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| snap0964 |
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AFAIK, there's no difference in bleeding ABS or Non ABS systems.
Front and rear systems are independent of each other, so it doesn't matter which one is done first, only that both sides of that system are done together, and Longest line to shortest i.e. FL & FR, or RL & RR.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| rallyboy77 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Check if there is signs of brake fluid running down the brake booster (paint will be peeling off)
There was a little trickle of fluid coming from the back of the master cylinder. Has now been replaced and all is good. My theory is the master cylinder was on its way out and attempting to bleed it caused one of the seals to fail completely. Thanks for your help, J |
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