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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 1:09 pm 
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I couldn't actually get my alternator pulley off with the rattle gun. Locked the rotor in a vice and set her free that way..

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:13 pm 
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Ride: 93 Maverick LWB/S2 LWB Delica

Power: 75 rwkw

Location: uoʇǝlƃuıs lʍoq ʇsnp
NSW, Australia

{USERNAME} wrote:
I couldn't actually get my alternator pulley off with the rattle gun. Locked the rotor in a vice and set her free that way..


Either you need a better rattle gun or better air supply and sometimes both, using a cheapo rattle gun and compressor (ah la Supercheap) with tiny ID air hose wouldn't pull a maggot off a lamb chop.

A good rattle gun (probably not a Supercheap one, but you don't need to buy a Snapoff Gold plated one either) and "air supply" should be able to remove any nut or bolt that doesn't require a breaker bar and one metre pipe for an extension on that breaker bar (cheap breaker bars either permanently bend or snap the 1/2 inch drive at this point).

The biggest mistake I see with air tools is mainly air supply; small air hose, small fittings and low real CFM, don't believe those cheap compressor CFM ratings. Next is lack of maintenance, not oiling at least once a day if used a lot with proper compressor oil and keeping to that brand etc to prevent in compatible oil types mixing and gumming up the tools.

You will be surprised how an expensive rattle gun can be beaten by a less expensive rattle gun just because of required air supply.

Don't use multi hex sockets in a rattle gun unless the bolt or nut head is multi hex, it only f**k the socket eventually, sometimes they can shatter and fly everywhere (been there, seen that, lucky nobody was hurt), you will also wear the socket out each time you do this.

Use single hex sockets, they work better by having more contact on the bolt or nut, you can buy mega expensive ones but you would be surprised how a cheap $60 deep socket set (recommend deep it will cover more a range of jobs) lasts with lots of abuse, if you don't expect to use them heaps every day, I recommend buying a cheap set from a good tool shop etc, a shop that doesn't normally sell $2 hammers etc and won't be shut down the next day.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:32 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Either you need a better rattle gun or better air supply and sometimes both, using a cheapo rattle gun and compressor (ah la Supercheap) with tiny ID air hose wouldn't pull a maggot off a lamb chop.

That has got to be one of the funniest analogies I've read in a long time. Nice one. :P

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:59 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
Either you need a better rattle gun or better air supply and sometimes both, using a cheapo rattle gun and compressor (ah la Supercheap) with tiny ID air hose wouldn't pull a maggot off a lamb chop.

That has got to be one of the funniest analogies I've read in a long time. Nice one. :P


But so true!

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 5:00 pm 
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lol, thank god it wasn't mine then.. :roll:

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 5:07 pm 
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The pulley change over on my EL was very easy, and Martin's right, I did some before and after runs with the G-Tech and it gave me 11kw at the wheels.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 8:28 pm 
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So does this mean you finally have the full march kit on your car Sean? Let me see....
Shane

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 9:08 pm 
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It is, i'll borrow my mates camera tonight so I can take many.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 2:33 pm 
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Ride: EFII 5.8 NOS TerroristGhia

Power: 274 rwkw

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NSW, Australia

I acnt give you a power increase figure, cause i havent had it dyneod recently, but i have also made several changes recently, what i can tell you is that there is definitely a seat of the pants increase in hp. It can be felt. As to getting the alternator pulley of, just drop into a workshop near by and ask them to undo it with their rattle gun. when its undone, swap the alternator pulley and ask them to tighten it, shouldnt cost you any more than 10bucks.
As to replacing the belt. the easiest way i have found is to run in over all the pulleys except the middle top one( idler pulley i think). Instead of goind under is as it is supposed to be, slide it on top, then when all the rest are in place, apply downward pressure and it slips underneath the pulley with out much effort at all
Cheers

 

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Posted: Fri Feb 11, 2005 6:20 pm 
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ok guys , i got my underdrive pulleys from shane today,, and they look HOT, all i have to do now , is put the b**ch on :P

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 5:25 am 
Getting Side Ways
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NSW, Australia

Those of you who have been following both this and NOS for me will note that the increase from the pulleys was 7.1rwkw. Not bad for the outlay. I highly reccomend them, and they do look trick
Brett

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 4:45 pm 
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Ride: Build# 499 BF F6 TYPHOON DEJA VU

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i got my pulleys fitted today, and i can feel a big difference. money well spent for me

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 5:44 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
i got my pulleys fitted today, and i can feel a big difference. money well spent for me

Did you fit them, if so how hard was it?
If not, who did it n how much they charge? :P

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 5:59 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: Build# 499 BF F6 TYPHOON DEJA VU

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mechanic fitted them for me, only took 1/2hr it looked easy,, $80, if could have undone the nut on the alt, with out the gun i would have done it myself

 

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