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| henry95ef |
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hi guy,
need some help deciding what size stall converter to run, i have a 95 ef gli with 2002 au motor ef ported head stage 4 cam (power from 1800 to 5500rpm) 3.45 xr diff gears i want something large like 3400 coz thats where it makes max torque, 
ii dont care how it drives on the street as i drive it only to work and back (3.30am and 6.30pm) and to willowbank i did a manual conversion back in november but dont like it so im converting back i know jmm make 3000rpm units for $650 but i can get a jetco unit for $250 exchange, my bro has a 2200 unit in his ba xr6 turbo and it is awesome
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| cjh |
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A BA Turbo makes way more torque than your engine, so 3,000 to 3,500rpm stally would be the go.
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| Freak6 |
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i was considering this in my future mods for the next two year and i was thinking a 3000rpm stall.
they seem to be the way to.
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| Xflow |
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Age: 36 Posts: 721 Joined: 31st Dec 2005 Ride: EF V8 Futura, 180sx Location: Brisbane, Burpengary |
sorry to hijack the thred and all but how dose the stally work? suposably i got a 3000rpm stally im my car. is it car wont move to 3000rpm or have to have foot on brake up to 3000rpm. guy said it a pcv or something like that brand. i bought the car 2 weeks ago. and only got it cause i quick for a ef(runnning au engine)
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| green machine |
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I wouldn't go over 3000 or you will limp none stop! I'm running a custom 2800 stallie and every now and again it went into lhm,but now i have the lhm module installed and havn't had that problem again. just be careful with the 3000 stallies though because i know a couple of guy's who had one and the stallie burnt there box out,so bigger is not alway's better! my power comes in at 2000 - redline and i find the 2800 to big! if i stall anything over 2500 i get to much wheel spin off take off and thats no good!!
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| Freak6 |
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so a 2500stall is one to consider then?
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| WagonDad |
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Got a Dominator 2200/2400rpm more stall and 150rwkw. While the 200rpm over standard is better it is still not enough, another 200/300rpm so around 2500/2700 rpm would suit the tourqe range of the I6 better. As for traction problems (good problem to have) LSD and bigger sticker tyres are needed, just wacked some 225 60R 15's Hankooks on the stock Fairmont rims and made a huge difference even in the wet.
_________________ 4.0L EF Fairmont Station Wagon. EL GT Snorkel. K&N Pod in air box. 3" Intake piping.
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| green machine |
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yeah the 2500 or 2700 would be the better option,3000 or higher would only be good for turbo's or car's with lazy cam's!
and wagondad as for the traction problem,good for off the strip but not for the strip,and i'm running lsd with some fat grip tyres! i just can't load the stallie up to much or i will wheel spin off launch.
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| WagonDad |
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Yeah the old 205 65R 15 Kumo's would spin up real easy on the street and would break traction on the strip if stalled past 1800rpm. Havent had a chance to try the 225 Hankooks in the dry yet to much rain, cant wait to try them out at the strip hopefully will be able to stall to 2000/2200 rpm so the stallie can do its job.
_________________ 4.0L EF Fairmont Station Wagon. EL GT Snorkel. K&N Pod in air box. 3" Intake piping.
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| ebfairmont3.9 |
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Get a 3000.... They come stock with a 2200... Is it really worth $500 to gain 300 rpm off the mark.. Get a 3000 and shiftkits.com.au has a module which stops limp home mode on stallys above say 2500+ Also if you really want to improve your 1/4 time in an auto id throw in some 4.11's its not to high like ppl think i only do 2250 at 100 on the highway so its nothing. but will flog your 3.45's time on the 1/4 mile.
_________________ 1994 ED Fairmont Champaign Gold - AU Series II Intech 4.0L - EL EFI - Thermo Fans - 4.11 LSD - Pacemaker 4480 Into Custom 3" Exhaust - Shift Kit |
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| Private9 |
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ebfairmont3.9 wrote: Get a 3000.... They come stock with a 2200... Is it really worth $500 to gain 300 rpm off the mark.. Get a 3000 and shiftkits.com.au has a module which stops limp home mode on stallys above say 2500+ Also if you really want to improve your 1/4 time in an auto id throw in some 4.11's its not to high like ppl think i only do 2250 at 100 on the highway so its nothing. but will flog your 3.45's time on the 1/4 mile.
Agree 100%. I've got a 2700, and if I was to buy another I'd definitely go for a 3000. |
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| daloud1 |
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i had a 2800 rpm from jmm and it was s**t. It broke on the second stall and i was reading somewhere on here someone else ran one and it burn't the oil. he sent it away to get it checked and they said it was a poor design.
I'm going a 3500 rpm or maybe a 4000 rpm (only want it for burnouts) and getting the high stall module. Also if you get a high stall make sure its a lockup converter. Eg. say you put it into 4th gear, if its not a lock up you will burn the converter out. A lockup converter allows you to drive under the stall speed only in overdrive But it wont burnout. I know that dominator do lockup converters to 4500 rpm. But the price jumps from $600ish to $1200 once you go over about 2800 rpm. [/url]
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| green machine |
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ebfairmont3.9 wrote: Get a 3000.... They come stock with a 2200... Is it really worth $500 to gain 300 rpm off the mark.. Get a 3000 and shiftkits.com.au has a module which stops limp home mode on stallys above say 2500+ Also if you really want to improve your 1/4 time in an auto id throw in some 4.11's its not to high like ppl think i only do 2250 at 100 on the highway so its nothing. but will flog your 3.45's time on the 1/4 mile.
I beleave the stock converters are 2000rpm not 2200rpm! and I know JR from street fords put a jim mock 3000 stall in his ba xr6t and could only get it to stall up to 2600rpm he was real p*ssed! and as for the 4.11's would only be good for the strip and not for the everyday driver.
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