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| Mac Winter 76XB351GS |
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Gday,
I have a fairly large cam and springs to suit. I was thinking of going with an edelbrock set of timing gears. Iv heard that the JP ones arent all that good and Im not too sure what the ebay 'procomp' ones are like. Just wondering if anyone has used the Edelbrock gears and if they are worth the $$$. I dont care about the noise, just after the best preformance. Other than that, what are crow or rollermaster timing chains like? Cheers, Matt
_________________ 76XBGS, 383c, custom crow cam, 4V p&p heads, Isky SS Valve+springs, extractors, 2.5"twins, MSD Ignition, Edelbrock intake, Forged bottom end, Barry Grant 750DP, thermo, discs, toploader, Holley fuel pump, SUPERCHARGED! |
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| spaz ef |
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got a mate with an 11second 51 xe use to have timing gears till it snap't the cam he has been running double row chain ever since no probs n thats with large solid cam
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| EBXR8380 |
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Rollmaster... No issues....
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| ELGT |
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Ever known a bloke to stay with a whining wife???
Never known a bloke to stay with whining timing gears! Have heard of clevos snapping the snout off the crank with PJ gears. Rollmaster only is my call. |
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| Mac Winter 76XB351GS |
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Rollermaster it is, time to fire up the ebay.
Cheers!
_________________ 76XBGS, 383c, custom crow cam, 4V p&p heads, Isky SS Valve+springs, extractors, 2.5"twins, MSD Ignition, Edelbrock intake, Forged bottom end, Barry Grant 750DP, thermo, discs, toploader, Holley fuel pump, SUPERCHARGED! |
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| southportautorecyclers |
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i had gears in my 302 windsor, was good at first but got over the noise real quick, so changed bak to chain
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| Walker |
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Me 3 for Rollmaster.
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| phantom |
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Had JP gears in my coupe and never had a prob
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| 409Stroker |
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Roller master me 4 ... (is there any thing else!!!)
_________________ If you have it under control then you dont have enough power..
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| Macca |
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Rollmaster 5
There is also the issue of known valve train harmonics using geardrives, in theory gear drives transfer more vibrations through to valve springs etc, reducing their lifespan, for most people running gear drives they aren't daily drivers so they don't run up a lot of engine hours to find out, more likely they will be pulled apart for other issues before this happens or a failure due to harmonics but not realised. {USERNAME} wrote: Valve-train Harmonics
The crankshaft drives the camshaft though a chain, belt or gear(s). Any torsional vibrations at the crank will naturally be transmitted to the cam. These vibrations can and do cost power. If they are not controlled, they can cause spring surge and early valve float. Valve spring selection is very important, but even carefully selected springs can loose control of the valve-train do to torsional vibrations. You can run a flat wound damper in the springs or use various type of springs that have variable resonate frequencies to limit the effects of vibrations, like barrel wound springs. There are many ways to dampen valve-train harmonics at the spring, and most do a good job, but limiting them at the crank is much better. Gear drives are by far the worse as far as transferring vibrations. I should actually say that they are the best, since just about every bit of vibration is transferred through them and some cheap (or just poorly designed) ones can even create more vibrations. When using gear drives the importance of a good torsional damper is even greater. A stock timing chain or aftermarket roller chain is a better choice in most cases than a gear drive. A belt drive does a pretty good job of limiting the vibration that is transferred to the cam at higher rpm, but offers little advantage in the lower rpm range. WOW I was looking for a technical article on valve hamonics and found this old thread in Google 
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins |
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| Warlock |
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i have rollmaster also we should start a rollmaster club
_________________ WINNER: |
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| Macca |
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{USERNAME} wrote: i have rollmaster also we should start a rollmaster club
Maybe, everyone is probably using them due to quality and not overpriced, then again I haven't bought a Rollmaster set in a long time for anything, but I know they weren't that much higher price than a crap quality chains, a lot of places wouldn't sell you anything else.
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins |
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| Warlock |
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i rang around b4 i bought mine and they were all priced between 200-500 for a twin row chain i paid about 100 for the roll master all though the price varied for the roll master for the 100 - 250 too lol
_________________ WINNER: |
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| Walker |
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200 to 500? Were they for f**k real?
My only b**ch about Rollmaster is they are machined so perfect that they are very tight on the crank, bit of a b**ch when you're trying to dial in and need to slip it off and on to change timing.... The cheapies slip on and off without too much effort. But after pulling my Clevo down the first time with about 40 thousand hard k's, the timing chain was still tight, no slack what so ever... The cheapies slacken after only a few thousand. |
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| Macca |
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{USERNAME} wrote: But after pulling my Clevo down the first time with about 40 thousand hard k's, the timing chain was still tight, no slack what so ever... The cheapies slacken after only a few thousand.
I have seen the same, I bought a hard driven 302W and when I pulled it down due to one of the 69s piston skirts started to come off, the Rollmaster was perfect, so good I reused it, something I would normally never do due to new chains aren't weren't that expensive back then. Rollmasters were all around $100 mark except for dodgy priced joints back in the late ninties, it is pretty good if you can still pick them up for around the same price if you shop around.
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins |
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