is this true?

.Mk // says:
Yeah See wats wrong with ford disks right BA and AU, is that
.Mk // says:
They're made of cheap metal compound that warps really easy
Orloxsis says:
:S ive never heard of this...
Mk // says:
the guys at the Brake place says
.Mk // says:
ford have issues with their breaks

yes

any other questions you want to ask before searching?

I did search, a**hole.
If you have a problem with people asking questions, dont bother saying anything - if you cant say anything nice - dont say anything at all.

you need to build up mild heat in the disc, let it cool and do the same. when you put new disc on and do a high speed stop they will wrap. as the saying gose softly softly. the disc will heat harden and then you dont have any problems with them. its the same for any disc even the V8s have to bed brakes in.
hope this helps

ok

if you cant say anything nice - dont say anything at all.
http://fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44774

found on page 2 of this forum

Thanks

well the DBA's on AU and BA did suffer from poor grade batches which is what he may be refering to. Since ford did not specify what type of metal to use DBA decided to run with the cheapest stuff they could find. If you run those ducks nuts bendix pads (cant remember what they are called) on the standard DBA you will chew them up bedded or no. The brembo's are the choice pick... if you have the dosh.

chill boys... this aint holdenmods

The main reason that Fraud rotors warp a lot is the change in design at the introduction of the EA.

What happened is that 1) the stub axle was made shorter,and 2) the bearing centers were reduced. All in the interests of saving weight (less unsprung weight = softer ride) Because of these alterations, more stress was placed on the rotor. Another alteration was the material the rotor was made out of. In the interests of better braking, a softer steel was used, thus allowing for greater DTV (Disc Thickness Variation)

In order to get the most out of the rotors, one should ensure that the inner seal is EXACTLY bottomed in the recess, and that the wheel is done to the correct tension. Also the wheel bearing should be done to the correct tension also. I don't have the tensions on hand at the moment, but if antbody is interested, I can look them up and post them.

The above is the main reason why all the rotors for pre EA's lasted forever, and the post EA's lasted for 6 months.

I run two sets of rotors. One set on the car, and the other pair ready to be machinrd to put on when required.

Like he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^, the disc's are softer, and when the wheel nuts are over-tensioned, it warps the rotor, and machining doesn't fix it, they have to be replaced.