Hey guys,

I sorted mt motor out, it's the timing, so off for a dynotune next week if i can. I have a slight problem though, when you give the engine a bit of a rev, it takes a bit longer than it should to go to idle. When you are driving and around 3000pm, and you change gears, revs only drop about 250. like you havent even taken foot off the acc' pedal.

Any ideas, i thought ISC motor might be a bit d**k??

Cheers

Daz

I have the same problem with my ef xr6. I'm not to sure what the problem is either.

Check your accellorator cable for fraying. Also clean and lube the side of your throttle body where the cable joins. Could adjust the idle screw too if its been tampered with.

I did all that when i did my engine conversion. It is definately ISC motor related.


Doesn't it annoy you? I think i have a solution. I will let you know how it goes.

Cheers

Daz

My ELXR6 has always had this problem...I've read other threads on here saying it was "by design"...

as far as i know, its what EF 6's do. it annoys me how it holds its revs for a sec, or even builds em with no throttle.

Get the motor hot, turn it off. Remove the ISC and cover the 2 holes with a piece of cardboard or similar. Now start the motor. Does it still do it?

If not then see if you can get your hands on another ISC.

Hi,

I was out this morning picking up another rear quarter panel for the mav. After i left the guys house it backfired and would'nt rev. By the time i got to a corner where i could pull over it stalled. Luckily i was at a car wash where there was plenty of room. I tried to start it again, and it wouldn't fire. I waited a bit for it to cool down and tried again, and nothing.
Then i had visions of the smartlock bypass crapping itself. I got a spanner and pulled the ISC off, the engine started.

I checked the isc with the power on and it never moved, so that was the problem. I give it a couple hits, and voila, it opened. I put it back on, and the car was fine all the way back home.

I tried the neutral switch connector as well, and it doesnt increase revs, same for when u turn the A/C on, it's s'posed to bump up the revs for the extra accessories. I'm gonna try the cardboard trick and see how it goes.

I'm going to suss out the voltage from the ecu and see what happens.
I will fix this problem, which by all accounts is by design.
Out of curiousity, does anyone know how much a new ISC is??

Cheers

Daz

Hey Guys,

I had a look at the votages from the ecu and as revs rise the voltage drops, the voltage at idle is correct (between 8 and 11V, at 9.5V) doesnt make any sense to me as to how the solenoid is s'posed to work, and obviously it doesn't work properly. A new ISC from Ford is $175.00....stuff that.

$20.00 from pick and payless, and it still does the same thing.


This is what i came up with, just a prototype, will make it look a bit nicer.
Bolted it on and it started first go, and a bit easier to boot.
Idle was a bit rough, but once it warmed up a bit it was fine. Adjusted the idle speed once warm to about 800 rpm, stab the throttle and she revs and drops back to idle as it should.

Does anyone know if other car manfacturers use a similar set-up to ford??
Looks like my block will work ok, took it for a drive and down-changes are a bit better than before.

Cheers

Daz

The ISC is a PWM solenoid, so looking at voltages doesn't really tell you much.

In theory the higher the voltage the more "closed" the thing is, which means the lower the idle speed. But once you hit the throttle it opens up (hence the lower voltage) to supply more air to the engine.

Makes sense, because when the revs are up, obviously the throttle body butterfly is open so no extra air needs to be bypassed cause it not idling.

I think i'll stick with my mod, and stuff the PWM solenoids.


Cheers

Daz