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Hubird |
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I have a 95 EF GLi 6cyl and recently had to replace a cracked brake booster. Ford wanted $230 for a new booster so I got a second hand one from the wreckers for $65. After putting new pads all round and a new master cylinder due to constant seepage my brake pedal goes down very low when I start the engine, I'm not sure if this is a recent thing or I am just noticing it now. Thinking that the booster may have been faulty I got another one but the pedal feels the same. I have bled all the brakes and was after some feedback as to how far everyone else's pedal goes down or what else could be wrong. [/b]
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Damo |
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Sounds like air in the lines, are you sure you bled the brakes correctly, ie starting from furtherest away from the booster etc ?
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revcore |
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We had a similar problem with the brakes on an old Datsun ute we used to own.....Turns out the brake booster needed resleeved. We rekitted it but it did no good but the resleeving fixed it up perfectly.
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Hubird |
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I'm 100% sure they were bled correctly, I followed the workshop manual to the letter. As I mentioned this is the second booster I have put in (both second hand). I guess both of them could be rooted but it seems a little unlikely don't you think ?
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hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I'm 100% sure they were bled correctly, I followed the workshop manual to the letter. As I mentioned this is the second booster I have put in (both second hand) I guess both of them could be rooted but seems a little unlikely. i changed the piston seals and dust boots 2 weeks ago,front pistons are steel-flash chromed,they where pitted and peeling-seals where hard and scored,had to use the brake to push them out,almost siezed,but still worked.they dont retract off pads enough to loose contact so they rub constantly. rears are aluminium pistons-same as front,siezed. also the front calipers are steel and rust on outer seal grooves and lock the piston,rear calipers are aluminium,no problems.after cleaning and fitting new seals,i pushed the pistons in with 2 thumbs.semi bleed the brakes-even with air it stops well.when you changed masters did you line up the pushrod correctly to booster,and prime the new master cylinder, i changed my master and had the secondary jam,stripped it twice,looked ok,2 time it worked-ok,dont know why?same parts.is the vacuum line from engine ok? bleeder screws- ok,seating.check the hoses for leaks,and pipes.is it fitted with abs? my pedal moves 12mm and stays 75mm of floor -even with air in system
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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Hubird |
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Yep pushrod is lined up to the booster (brake work well all be it really low). Not sure what you mean by "prime the new master cylinder" and my car does not have abs.
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envy1989 |
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hey guys
i have a green 1996 ef falcon recently i tryed to change the brake pads and ran into a couple of problems .... the driver side work fine ... but wen i tried to do the pasenger side the piston in the caliper would not move ..... so i just hooked it back up .... then lost the brakes all together .... the caliper is hooked up rite but i dont know what the problem is can any one tell me were i messed up |
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hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: hey guys as i said,rust and piston chrome flaking,makes it hard to push piston in.
i have a green 1996 ef falcon recently i tryed to change the brake pads and ran into a couple of problems .... the driver side work fine ... but wen i tried to do the pasenger side the piston in the caliper would not move ..... so i just hooked it back up .... then lost the brakes all together .... the caliper is hooked up rite but i dont know what the problem is can any one tell me were i messed up
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Yep pushrod is lined up to the booster (brake work well all be it really low). Not sure what you mean by "prime the new master cylinder" and my car does not have abs. fill master up and push piston in a few times to shot oil out the brake line ports.then screw the lines on?
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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