hi guys

i spoke to a guy from ftg, and he told me a price for engine, box and rear diff for the wagon, to convert all turbo spec. He said the price included those items mention, plus loom, computer and other little bits.

I then asked him what exactly are these other little bits that are required. Unfortunately he was very busy, and he could not tell me. Could someone please tell me what is required.

Once i piece it together, i will tell a step by step on how this is done, based on my research.

There is alot of haze in this area where not much ppl will open up. Where as im telling all, once i find out.

IMO cheaper to sell up and buy a turbo! Most of the engine is different... pistons, bearings, the lot...

Unless you have factory dedicated gas (which has same internals as a turbo), you'd be silly not to change it all... and that'll cost more than just gettin a turbo vehicle

I get the same thing at work! People ring up with n/a base models wanting to do a turbo conversion! Yes it is cheaper and easier just to buy one that came like it!

you can boost an n/a for 4k.

also if a eb motor with 200,000 on the clock can stand up to 6-7 psi for quite a while id say a motor with anywhere from 0-150,000 on it and alot newer and stronger will be able to handle some boost too.

there are a few guys in B-series who have boosted their Na cars... and there are alot of threads about it posted in AFF in the B series section (however i am now banned from AFF.)

you can boost it for 4k granted... but have you thought Y the internals are different?? what about all the other problems after... the 4k don't cover that.

For an extra 4-5k, you can get a turbo, with all the proper stuff...

He can get a factory turbo wagon for $4k more than an NA one can he?

maybe not a waghoon, but a sedan...

life's a b**ch, you either bend over and cop it or don't do it at all... IMO he's a toll if he grabs an aftermarket turbo kit... there's a few cam places that, in exchange for 3.5-4k, you'll get 250kw NA.

I just think that, if you want a turbo, your better off buying a turbo, if you want a waghoon, maybe you should look at a turbo territory... it aint guna be cheap, but you won't get bent over fiddling with problems, trying to insure it, and finding factory parts aren't up to the power increases associated with a sudden increase in power

my 20 cents...

You could always get it supercharged, i think capa still make a kit for that type of motor...Vito.

so ford dont have to keep replacing motors from people who thrash the living tits out of their cars for 3 years and getting the motor rebuilt just before their warranty runs out?


just for reference..

If your talking BAs the differences are as follows:
-XR6T has stronger auto and diff, as well as LSD as standard and traction control
-XR6T has 8.7:1 compression ratio compared to the NA which has 9.7:1
- BA MK1 Turbos came with a 5sp manual (T5) and the MK2s came with the 6sp manual (T56), the 6sp being a much better gearbox in terms of power handling capabilities and smoothness.
-All NA BA XR6s were only available with the 5sp not the 6sp
-BA F6s were only available with the 6sp manual and also received a twin plate clutch
-F6s also have a much stronger bottom end compared to the BA XR6Ts

In terms of the BFs
-6sp auto available across the whole range of cars, in conjuction with the 6sp manual
-NA XR6s also have a 6sp auto but the one fitted behind NA 6s is rated at 450nm of torque whereas the one in the XR6Ts, 8s and F6s is rated at 600nm
-6sp manual available in BF XR6 NA instead of the old 5sp
-NA 6 runs more compression at 10.3:1 and adopts dual VCT
-BF Turbos run stronger valve springs compared to BAs
-All late model BF Mk1 and Mk2 XR6Ts run a Typhoon bottom end

mate, all of that means sweet fa besides the stronger bottom end... and the stronger bottom end is all that matters!! its a turbo, it pulses like a dog when the boost comes in...

RAM, supercharger is the go, less stress on the engine, cheaper too!

yeah I agreeon supercharging being the way to go on a N/A engine. Less work bat also a lot easier. However if you are running a low boost like 6 to 8 psi you dont even need the strengthened bottom end.