Ok this isn't as much for step by step instructions although if you got them I'll take them, but more a matter of how hard to actually replace a gearbox, and anything important to be aware of, like how high and how difficult is it once the the box is unbolted, to get the actual box out, as I'm at a bit of a loss to how to get it actually out from under the car and back in?
Also anything else you can think of for why i would basically lose reverse it's just doesn't seem to be able to catch, it's got plenty of fluid, and the inhibitor switch was done not that long ago, so i don't think it's that.
thanks in advance for any advice.

Get the car as high as you safely can on stands. Use a floor jack under the gearbox, the trick here is to make an adapter that fits on the floor jack to balance it and not crush the pan. A piece of wood as a pad and two strong friends is most often used by home mechanics. Once the gearbox is free, ease it rearwards, lower the jack and remove it from under the car. The rest is as per the w/shop manual.
I prefer removing the engine & gearbox together and separating them once out but as I have the crane and work alone, it's my easier option.
Try adjusting the bands to see if that improves selecting reverse,you'll need a torque wrench. You should replace the trans. filter [it comes in the trans. service kit] and have to put in 10l of fresh 95le or TQ95 fluid.
If this doesn't fix it you probably need a trans. mechanic.
Paul

Thanks for that, so it isn't to complicated to get out, yeah I suspect it's the bands, as it slips, and occasionally does go a little, we were thinking maybe even just get a new box is all, as the Gregory's manual doesn't actually show how to work inside it, eg adjust the bands etc...
That on top of the fact it's got 340 odd k's on the clock already, I'm hoping to put a box in get another 7 odd months out of it, then probably look for something else...

Page 160 in an Ellerey's. Try and borrow one or sneak a look somewhere, like a library.
Send [PM] me an e-mail address and I'll send you a scan if you want, if my scanner picks up this s**t image clear enough.
Pity your in Qld. I have two really good EB2 boxes here, filler tube and all, I'm told they fit and they're 100k younger than yours.
Cheers,
Paul

do yourself a favour, take thwe converter out with the box. unbolt it off the flex plate before removing the box. it will make your life much easier (and the box a bit heavier also )

You're right Mitch, but he said he's going to do it by the book so i reckon that's what he'll do. It's also why I suggested above he has two strong friends there! LOL
Paul

haha, yeah well, I'll do what evers easiest frankly, I never have been much of a by the book person so if theres a better method I'm all ears, other than taking the whole engine out, as I believe that will just be to difficult with a crane and, I'm hoping to have a new box in within the weekend possibly including removing another box possibly, haha, I have a bad feeling I'm biting off more than i can chew, but will see what happens...

Yeah I had a look at the library for manuals and they were useless, and most people I deal with around here have hilux's or commodores.

I'll have a look into the converter then how much harder to get that off.

by the way, could you get away without a torque wrench, like i know when we did my brothers hub, it had enough play we could have a swing at it with bodyweight to get a guess on it, but how about the gearbox? do i need any new bolts or gaskets or can i reuse the one i had?

Sory for all the, what are probably silly questions, just this is basically my first car, so I'm still learning.

Thanks for all the help, it's much appreciated.

if you're going to get a new box soon, why not go manual?

Highly recommend a torque wrench, even a cheap Supercheap one is much better than guessing. Make sure you have 40-60cms of extension bars for your 1/2 in drive socket set and a breaker bar to save your ratchet when undoing the larger bolts.
Taking the torque converter out with the box IS the easiest way of doing it, you can do great damage if you don't, the tensioning of the bolts will cause misalignment IF you can get the splines to line up when re-fitting. It's held on by 4 bolts accessed through the front lower cover plate [if you have one] and when you refit the gearbox you must sit the TC properly on the front shaft of the box, then bolt the box to the engine, then align and slightly tighten the 4 drive plate bolts. Fit all 4, then pinch them up, then tighten them right up. NO short cuts. 60Nms.
Follow the Gregories step by step, it's simpler and quicker than it reads here. You can re-use all bolts etc.
I normally replace the crankshaft rear main seal and the gearbox front and rear housing seals but if you've no experience and they're not leaking, it's probably best to leave them alone.
You'll need a flat bladed and a phillips screwdriver or similar to lock the teeth of the drive plate when doing the TC bolts. I use an old inlet valve with the stem bent at 90deg, but not many people have them laying around. LOL
When you remove the TC keep it face down so you don't pour tran fluid everywhere.
Read in the manual how to test the TC while you have it out. It's a simple two fingered procedure, can save you a lot of money.
I have scanned the band tightening instructions if you want to give that a go but it sounds like your committed to changing the 'box anyway.
There are no silly questions when you're honest enough to say "I want to learn" and are prepared to make an effort.
Good luck, if you get stuck just post your question here.
Cheers,
Paul