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fiftyone |
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had to take the rockers and cam out of the car ages ago to do stuff and (i think) ever since, hasnt given the same pwr as before. 0 100 times are dreadful and doesnt have that same perkyness you'd expect. (im only guessing as its a while ago)
the little key in the cam that aligns it to the sprocket couldnt be out of alignment and causing problems could it? im wondering if someone can tell me (generally) why i would need a vernia gear (and what it is) and spacers for a regrind am i right in assuming that a regrind is usually as good on pwr as a fresh one? what 'fresh' cams are best (im thinking crow) as i dont want to d**k around with shims and such. and i dont want to recal the ecu either. and when driving with a cam, (sane round town driving) the fuel economy would stay about the same? just so you know, im looking at (maybe) getting a cam later in the year depending on $$$ (of course). CMS do a good package i hear with lots of support. or possably wade. it is a hybrid head too. thank you too for anyone taking the time and patients to answer my questions too
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fordriver1 |
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cam could be dialled in wrong. if a tooth has slipped it could be out= realy bad power.
a vernier cam wheel has an inner (cam is fixed to it) and an outer (locked to the inner by 5 bolts which are through elongated holes, so when loosened the outer can be rotated on the inner). this allows for fine tuning of the cam timing, so it can be 'dialled in' for best results. a reground cam needs shims (spacers) because in order to get higher lobes (more 'lift') they dont add material to the original lobes, they grind the 'base circle' (the flat side of the cam, opposite the lobes). shims place the lifters closer to the cam so they 'read' higher lift, opening the valves further and the result of course is more power. this is a simplified explanation as more factors come into it- angle of lobe lift, duration etc.
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fiftyone |
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fordriver1 wrote: cam could be dialled in wrong. if a tooth has slipped it could be out= realy bad power.
a vernier cam wheel has an inner (cam is fixed to it) and an outer (locked to the inner by 5 bolts which are through elongated holes, so when loosened the outer can be rotated on the inner). this allows for fine tuning of the cam timing, so it can be 'dialled in' for best results. a reground cam needs shims (spacers) because in order to get higher lobes (more 'lift') they dont add material to the original lobes, they grind the 'base circle' (the flat side of the cam, opposite the lobes). shims place the lifters closer to the cam so they 'read' higher lift, opening the valves further and the result of course is more power. this is a simplified explanation as more factors come into it- angle of lobe lift, duration etc. thanks for the detailed reply. i doubt that the cam or chain slipped at all. however, the small key on the front of the cam. is there any way that may have inadvertantly been damaged or not put back properly? im thinking not?
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