Well I data logged my ms2 last night for a few 2nd and 3rd gear bursts just to see which side of stoic the engine was running at WOT (only have NB), and well ….. bad news….. #19 injectors suck!!!!

By 3700rpm the engine is running around stoic (well as much as can be trusted with a NB) and is running at 80% Duty cycle. The injectors are at 100% Duty cycle by 4600rpm and the O2 value is dropping indicating the car leaning out from 3800rpm onwards even though the injectors are maxed out. This is all with a narrow band however, so things are taken as “indicationâ€￾ not as fact, however this backs up my dyno run with the EEC which showed the car leaning out from 3800rpm upwards. I have an adjustable reg for an interim change, but I think a set of #32’s(#24’s reach 100%DC with 13:1 AFR by 4200rpm running stock fuel pressure on a similar motor) will be needed to keep DC below 80% and the fuel pressure at a level which wont kill the pump.

Hmmm well if your doubting your wiring then I'd start there then double check your soldering on MS itself. It certainly sounds like a loose conection somewhere, if you made a stim board then benchtest it on that to see if its MS or the interface???

Dunno about a group but I'm happy to give ya a hand to sort it out, I also ordered a MSII on the w/e as I haven't had much luck in getting MSnS to run spark..
It pulls like a mule up to 2500rpm then starts to ping and I've got the IGN Table tweaked all the way down with no more adjustment left????
I think it might be because my PIP has a shortened pulse at no.1 cyl but I'll have to get the CRO and a timing light in there to see where things are going a** up..

Try this, hook up a little transistor, wired into the current boosted PIP signal, and hook the second transistor to a LED. This way you know that the MSII is getting a proper trigger. If thats all well, disconnect your SPOUT (let it run at 10 degrees) and hook up an LED on your SPOUT, see if thats ok aswell. Failing that, try reloading your firmware (after saving your settings ofcourse).

If the above doesn't help, you should check your input circuitry, to see that everything is soldered well and truly. If this is just starting to happen now after some building time, i'd be thinking maybe excessive flux may be causing you grief, so try cleaning it.

Good luck.
Cheers

Check your grounds first. It looks like you've got a dirty CLT reading which could be caused by a ground issue. CLT sensors are usually slow reaction sensors since the coolant heats up slowly there's no reason for it to have a low thermal time constant, nor is there any reason to sample it more that a couple of times a second. Your datalog shows the CLT reading to jump around more that I'd expect.

When everything goes to zero, does the counter restart from 0? If it does, you're getting an ECU reset, possibly caused by a ground problem. Although the Megasquirt processor boots up in a fraction is a second... it doesn't take 10 seconds.

Sorry just a quick reply...

The flickering CLT reading (which is all over the place) is shared with all the other readings...

The clock i'm reading is the readout in realtime display.. so its the time coming out of the MSII itself.. it stops increasing.. and then will continue on.. I'm not timing this..

But yeah this is really on hold until i settle in at uni and can get some assistance.. nfghia interested in assisting? hehe

hey hey hey everyone

just dug up this old-banger thread with an update.. (like im sure everyone was on the edge of their seats)

i've finally got it running the friggen car! helped now that its manual, oh and dans wideband!

anyway, ive putted around in it a bit, driven from beaumaris to mordialloc and to clarinda a few times.. its fairly drivable now... its got flat spots but apart from that its not too bad...!!

quick question for everyone... when my car burbles in overrun thats when its leaning out i gather cause i can see the afr go up and down with the burbles to about 16:1... is this bad? it reminds me of my mums hotted up mini but should i fool around with the map to get rid of it? it does sound tuff tho...

anyway i attatched some proof, and ya can download and have a look if ya interested in it all...

Good to see you finally got t all worked out! Been a while now lol.

Congrats are in order I guess


Cheers

16:1 shouldn't hurt it on deccel. I run 16:1 at cruise.

does your car pop and burble on decel??

Nope, and it's a lot leaner than 16:1 on decel.

I run a full fuel cut on decel and it pops & burbles quite loudly, although the exhaust is overly loud anyways.

I'm only running 60% cut so that's probably why mine doesn't pop and burble, although the exhaust is pretty quiet as well, i dare say a larger or more fre flowing exhaust would be more likely to do it as well.