I am aware that the fuel pump primes up on ignition - I read back to my original post and i can see that my wording may have been misleading. If the fuel pressure regulator is not holding pressure when the car is switched off and letting fuel back into the tank, this may cause less than recommended fuel pressure on the next start if the operator doesn't wait those few moments for the pump to prime the rail - eg they skip straight to crank.

I am also aware of the common sense related to letting your car warm up. This is a given, but it is not what this thread is about. My EF, as well as Till_Lind's and everyone else's, rolled off the factory floor without these problems, and regardless of the common sense and care in letting the car warm up (which I totally agree with btw), it was designed to be able to roll away immediately after start, and when it doesn't, there is a problem.

Just for the record, I live in the city with my car in a small, enclosed, underground garage with a steep ramp, and an unforgiving electric card access door with EvilChip (tm) installed (closes on your bonnet!). Starting up and immediately moving out of it is a necessity, as the build up of exhaust takes about 15 secs it my situation. The ramp is a killer and terminates right on the road near a blind spot - I can't afford to risk an accident from stalling, let alone asphyxiation

I don't believe for a moment that my problem has anything to do with my transmission being auto or manual - Since my LPG runs 100% at all engine temps, this is almost certainly an air/fuel metering problem.


Haven't had time this arvo to see if my air bypass is working correctly, I should get to it tomorrow.



heh... .I must have missed that info in the original thread. I can't say I've got that much bad luck as yet - although i'd have thought that a small leak would be blown straight out of the exhaust as long as it isn't large enough to cause a compression lock. Either way - don't keep running if your engine is straining to crank over - you'll just be pumping coolant through the ring gaps straignt into your oil.

Yeah she's still running okay, just the homo initial acceleration.

TILL i have a 94 too doing exact and i cant find it either
done head leads plugs filter pump injectors
Still got this stupid dead area (worse cold )
Comes back after engine cools a bit

ill let ya know when i find it

Mike

Cool, I'll let you know if I ever fix the problem even just a little, but that's unlikely, lol.

Map sensor is little black box on firewall near the bbm with a vacuum hose going to it

this needs to be bumped because its a problem a lot of people are having

Rick_Deckard , EBgizmo did u ever find the solution to this????

yeah, im one. ive done some stuff and its gotten a little better. i'll post later

Never fixed it.... Just avoided petrol till it was hot. Since moving and changing jobs, I now have a decent company car, so will probably never get around to fixing it either

I still suspect it has something to do with the usage of the EGO sensor and mixtures of the LPG - ECU trying to change LPG mixtures unsuccesfully.

Try
Running the tank Dry and fuel up with $30 of preimum fuel and see if it dose it the next day and it might also clean your injectors a bit too.
but simple things you can do is

Remove your IAC and spray some carby/throttle body cleaner in there intill it clean and some into the to holes on the manifold from which it unbolted from.

Check your map sensor hose is secure to the bottem of map sensor and manifold.

and if your up to it and got a multi meter and a friend to help you can test your Throttle position sensor, MAP, Coolant temp sensor


Coolant temp sensor

should test from dark green wire with yellow stripe threw it other wire is it power feed.

10deg = 58.75 k§Ù
20deg = 37.30 k§Ù
30deg = 24.27 k§Ù
40deg = 16.15 k§Ù
60deg = 7.60 k§Ù
80deg = 3.84 k§Ù
100deg = 2.07 k§Ù


Throttle position sensor

when testing get some one to push the throttle slowerly and seen if it k§Ù or 250 k§Ù

im not 100% sure which one wire but it either the orange and black stripe wire or the one i think it is the dark green with black stripe

throttle closed = 3 k§Ù
Throttle open = 500 k§Ù


Map sensor

i beleve you test the dark blue wire with yellow stripe for this

ignition on = 0.155 to 0.156 kHz
engine idling in netural = 0.101 to 0.103 kHz
engine revving = 0.90 kHz
engine idling in drive = 0.105 to 0.106 kHz
engine idling with ac on or steering load 0.109 - 0.111 kHz


if all these seem to be close to and follow the patterns of above then there proberly good then if not try getting a new one from wrecks for few bucks and if fixes it you can see repco or coventry and get a new one if you want.

Let me know how you went and we can go from there

 

 

Attachments:

File comment: Give you an idea where most thing are DSC02341 (Small).JPG [ 64.26 KiB | Viewed 161 times ]

ive tested most except O2 and map because i dont have decent equipment.....I changed the ecu today and it seemed to be better but will hold off judgment for a while

good to here your is fixed it
i herd a while back about 2 resistor go in the ecu that control idle or something that blow.

also comes to mind it could be a manifold leak which you can find a leak by getting some soapy water in a bottle and spray it over the engine while it idling and it will bubble if it leaking

mine was a mixture of things.

had a small crack in the vac line to the preesure reg. fixed it.

throttle needed a clean. stuffed the isc in the process of that some how. so a wreakers spare and such.

threw a new IAT in too. just for giggles.

seems to have done ok, the idles still not 100% and the 0-100 times are still average as. and only does it a little bit. i havent found time to reset the ecu after it all, but im planning to. i have a feeling its something to do with fuel or system.

but its better than it was...