Hey all, anyone familiar with wiring up these? I bought one from this invisyguard bloke off ebay and I think I got everything right but it just doesn't work! The windows all still wind and the unit made a beeping noise once when I first turned it on, so there's power going through it and everythings wired right on the window side of things. Maybe I stuffed something up with the BEM wiring? The tech doco says to wire it to the yellow black wire so I did but there's this spare wire on the unit that I have no idea where it's supposed to go, the pink ignition wire. Anyone used these and can tell me what to do? Or have any other ideas fellas? Here's a wiring diagram if it helps.

The pink IGN wire goes to a 12v IGN source.
IIRC, I couldn't get it to work using a -ve trigger (falcon cent locking)- I had to use +ve triggering.

Thanks heaps mate, so could I use the power wire that goes to the switches themselves to tap into for the pink wire? That's ignition triggered but it does have the delay thing after you turn the car off to still use the windows so I'm not sure if that's suitable. I would've thought it would have to be connected to the door lock line to work and neither of the central locking related wires are positive. I sent the bloke an email and he said that the trigger wire "is wired any wire on the original factory central door loking system that changes it voltage when you lock the car ( you must switch igntion on and off to reset this trigger wire. )" But both the central locking inputs are just grounds? I could theoretically wire it to something that turns on when I use the remote like the interior light but then if I want to read a map my windows will wind up Sorry about this I have basic soldering and an understanding of electronics but cars for me are a whole new thing and it's a bit overwhelming!

IIRC the directions say you can connect the pink to ACC power ??
Also IIRC, you'll find the lock and unlock lines change polarity - i.e. one line will be 12v, the other 0v, so choose the appropriate one.
Some related content here: http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=49949

I fitted the wagon a while ago - still need to finish it, along with the ute, so I'm a bit hazy - I'll need to revisit it all - I agree what's said in the above link that the instructions are fairly ordinary.

Ahhh alright thanks mate, I was just going off the Smartlock Module Update technical doco but I'll give it a bash today and see how we go. Yeah the instructions were fairly lacking but the seller is a pretty nice bloke and trying to help me figure it out as well, even though he has no idea about falcons and my explanations are crap You didn't finish up the job? Did ya end up getting it working but? I tried to wire the speedo corrector up at the same time and have been having hassles with both but I cant be stuffed popping the dash on and off all the time so the car's been off the road for about a week now

Yeah, I got the winders to work fine - although they seemed to struggle with aftermarket winders I had in the back doors. Once I swapped them with the genuine rockwell rear motors I had, all 4 were okay then.

I also put a relay bypass system in the front window system, as the switches needed cleaning fairly often - so had to work out to attach to the auto winders.
So it worked as advertised after that, but needed triggering with a positive voltage, and I needed to reset it by pulling the CRT LP fuse.
So I'm thinking maybe the pink wire really does need IGN power, to tell the system when the engine is off.

As I say, I need to revisit it all to sort out those couple of things.

Just followin it up, finally got it all wired and sorted properly. Pink definately does need an ignition source for it to work properly. The negative smartlock trigger works fine with the unit I have. Now to see how well this unit will last. Bloody windows though catch slightly and the unit thinks theres something there and stops winding on the drivers window. Also the wiring listed in the tech doco for the rear passenger side is incorrect. It says yellow/yellow is the one you want which is incorrect, I think it's actually blue and red. The only solid yellow wire is the one for the drivers side to wind down. I followed the guide and it'd wind up the drivers side, followed by the passenger side, then rear drivers, then whoosh down goes the drivers side Was a bloody pain in the a** for a while until I figured it out! Thanks for the help snap.

NP Dude. Sorry about the vagueness - I hadn't touched the system for 4-5 mths. Yeah, the winders will go up in the order as per your diagram - SW1, SW2, etc.
Have you fitted and tested the rain sensor?? It does say to connect to 12v if not used.
I don't have the directions in front of me, but IIRC, it said for -ve trigger, the thin red trigger goes to the lock line, and the short red select wire goes to ground, and for +ve trigger, same but short red select goes to 12v??? Is this correct ??
As you've found, it is twitchy to obstructions - you may need to adjust that window glass to get a more reliable lift.
I'll have a look at my other unit and see if there's a sensitivity adjustment.

Nah mate you were alot of help, even if you thought you were being vague it's still better than no help at all. Nah I didn't want the rain sensor, just looped it in with the +12v wire (which I tapped from the hazard lights off the BEM). I can't honestly remember the last time it was raining enough in melbourne to warrant a machine immediately winding up all my windows

You're on the right track kinda, I asked the bloke himself and he said that the short red wire is hooked up to either a +5v or +12v line. It depends on what voltage your car uses to wind up the windows. Again, I just looped that in with the main 12+v wire. The trigger wire can be either positive or negative and doesn't have anything to do with the select wire as far as I can tell, just as long as the voltage changes when the central locking is activated. Here's what he told me "The thin red trigger wire is wired to any wire on the original factory central door loking system that changes it voltage when you lock the car ( you must switch igntion on and off to reset this trigger wire.)"

Yeah it is pretty sensitive I noticed, if you find some way of adjusting it let me know, it's a bit of a pain. Guess I'm gonna have to take the door trim off and play around with it and relubricate it. I used silicone spray last time, anything else you'd reccomend? When I replaced the passenger side window regulator I just kinda bolted it up and hoped for the best, didn't know you had to really align them so now it kinda clunks if you wind it all the way down While I'm there with the door trims off I might as well get round to adding some courtesy lamps and sound deadening because I f**k hate taking them off and putting them back on. It always gives me a new annoying rattle and the bloody door handles are such a prick to get back into place properly

Yeah thanks Mate.
I've found Brushcote to be reasonably good inside the door, and on the outer skin - can get it from Supercrap, etc - just wait for a 20% off day.

Yeah, I'll post back here re the sensitivity.

Here we go, how's this. Sent the guy an email the other day saying thanks and stuff but mentioning that the winder stops because there's not enough lube on the doors. He reckons he can send me a modification out that'll give more power to pull up the windows. Snazzy. I'll post back here what it is and how to fit it when I get it.

Yeah, thanks mate - that'll be very handy.
Sounds like this ebay seller gives very good aftersales support.

Gday again, got a reply from the seller. All it is is soldering a 1 amp polly switch onto the PCB, one per window window. Costs about two bucks each from jaycar and the part number is RN3464.

Looks easy as piss, I'll give it a shot sometime when I can next be bothered, thanks for your help mate.

. . . . . And thanks for your help too Dude.
Checked it out in the Jaycar cat - I'll get some Thurs.

Again, great to see someone who's a giver as well as a taker.

Yeah, the poly switches did the job - finished the auto winders for both cars - working very well. The pink line is important, can be hooked up to ACC power if needed instead of IGN. Following the instructions - the disable method works well too.
I've setup my boot button on the remote to wind the front windows down a few inches - mainly for ventilation when parked.