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| rdiigen |
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would like to know pro's and con's of doing this.
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| FORDom |
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ive been told to steer way clear of semi or any synthetic until its done about 15000k's
Im rebuilding an au right now, and i will be using running in oil for the first 500 then hpr 15 from then on. Might go mobile one after about 20000 or so |
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| revhead |
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synthetic oils will have more bennifit in a latter model engine than early model, but in saying that it wont hurt.
_________________ ef fairmont ghia 5.0L
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| Krytox |
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what for? to dump it in 2 weeks?
mineral oil for running in, in most cases.
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| nannas_ed |
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from what ive been told, use "running in" oil as it contains no friction modifiers or additives. dump it at 500k's again use running in oil for another 500k's dump it and then use what ever you want. but pick one type of oil/brand and stick with it
_________________
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| rdiigen |
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mechanic has car at the moment and put in castrol GTX 2/4?, cant remember which. I've only read around that mineral oil should be used and was a little dumbfounded when he said he's got semi'synth in there. He said he only uses mineral oil on older vehicles? now i'm confused/concerned.
does semi=synth cause blow-by? is this what you mean i'll have to dump it in two weeks?? |
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| revhead |
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FORDom wrote: ive been told to steer way clear of semi or any synthetic until its done about 15000k's
Im rebuilding an au right now, and i will be using running in oil for the first 500 then hpr 15 from then on. Might go mobile one after about 20000 or so Your spot on. A mechanic I work with said synthetic oil stops a motor from bedding in properly. But does prevent premature ware and adds to engine life.Although there is no substitute to regulare surviceing.
_________________ ef fairmont ghia 5.0L
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| Krytox |
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Your prolly reading peoples info based on about 10+ years ago.
Remember, people nowadays don't really run things in, its zap and go, we've more machine tolerances, more advanced oils, and much better controlled fuel systems, in turn, can make an engine run in without much user aid. However with tech savvy people in mind, surely enough, the correct running in method with bedding in rings eg. should still apply. Its funny, cos you can mother an engine from day dot, and it can be gutless forever, and it seems to me, engines that are neglected are all screamers! So in the end. its good old techniques vs' modern day oils. If it were I, I'd still use mineral, and run it in. Also, change the oil filter, as regularly as possible, it's picking up all the s**t in the engine.
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
i went mineral oil for the first 300km. and drove the thing pretty hard.
then went straight to motul 300V and have run it ever since. it's a 0w30 or 5w30 have no problem with oil usage |
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| mitchg911 |
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my 5L has been running penrite HPR10 since i rebuilt it, ran it in on HPR10, drove it hard and got it onto the dyno in the first 50 or so kms.
hasnt missed a beat yet with about 15thou on the clock. doesnt use a drop of oil or exibit any evidence of blowby. modern machining processes and advances in oil design have lessened the need for complicated break in procedures in my opinion. -mitch
_________________ BF XR6T 6spd Auto. 60lb injectors, Hybrid Cooler, Custom Piping, Custom Surge Tank, Actuator. |
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| low_ryda |
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my ea has been running hrp15 since 160,000k's and now its gettin close to 220,000k's and have no problems though i also use a lucas petroleum based additive
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| twr7cx |
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Personally I use running in oil initially (not for long), then switch to the oil that I'll run for the rest of the cars life with me.
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| Grechie |
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after running my engine in with some special oil, i now use penrite sin full synthetic
_________________ Ford Falcon EA Naturally Aspirated 4.0L i6 |
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| rdiigen |
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just found this on the Castrol site::
"Castrol recommends that Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 should not be put into new or reconditioned engines until they have covered approximately 1,000 km for road vehicles or approximately 30 minutes of dyno run-in for race engines. A mineral engine oil is recommended to ensure prompt and effective engine bed-in, such as Castrol GTX3." |
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| Gavsed |
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your best bet is to use normal 15w 40 or wat evr the rating is for running in dont always think that dearest is best
_________________ EF XR6 WGN LOWERED FG 19' XR6T RIMS SOUND SYS, 2 1/2' EXAUST |
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