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| revhead |
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With out knowing whats done to your car even if its loaded or not, personal opinion is your last wheel allignment guy or shop was doggy. I've worked tyres for a long time and a good wheel aligner wll tell you if there is whear in the front end that will not hold a wheel allignment for whatever reason.Mind you there is a huge difference between wheel allignment and road worthy.
_________________ ef fairmont ghia 5.0L
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| fiend |
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{USERNAME} wrote: the stock ones give you a little bit of adjustment-a few shims,the kits give you up to 22mm each side.my xr8 has 20 mm each side and ran out of thread to put more shims in----but at -.5 a deg on both sides the tyres wear even---17 x 8 so im suprised............ both sides v8 super car set up for the track,and chewing tryes out. have you thought a bout a trailer for your tools-balance your load----may be better economy? Awesome information... A real help, I promise you. Went to local performance part place and they gave me a bum steer on getting camber kits, but found some on net for $120NZ. Thanks again Hartman....! {USERNAME} wrote: I once loaded up my XG in a way that raised the front. I found that doing so increased the toe-in, which scrubbed the outside of the tyres Well well well... That is also interesting! And, thinking about it, is kind of a common sense thing. A bit of wieght behind rear axle and a whole lot more right on axle... Well - The front is going to want to go "up", which will pull bottom of tyres in, which will wear outsides quicker. Although, so saying that, not sure my tools wiegh more than the 6 cylinder auto up front! Hehehehe... {USERNAME} wrote: With out knowing whats done to your car even if its loaded or not, personal opinion is your last wheel allignment guy or shop was doggy. I've worked tyres for a long time and a good wheel aligner w......
Too right there brother. Am waiting to see if these wheels I ordered turn up (auction site!)... Also, getting the rotors machined so will do all that and get the alignment done. If the alignment is fine "according to factory settings" I am going to see how much room there is for the camber adjustment!!!!!! |
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| relaxed_diplomacy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: I once loaded up my XG in a way that raised the front. I found that doing so increased the toe-in, which scrubbed the outside of the tyres Well well well... That is also interesting! And, thinking about it, is kind of a common sense thing. A bit of wieght behind rear axle and a whole lot more right on axle... Well - The front is going to want to go "up", which will pull bottom of tyres in, which will wear outsides quicker. Although, so saying that, not sure my tools wiegh more than the 6 cylinder auto up front! Hehehehe... You seem to be thinking in terms of camber. It's true that changing the height of the front changes the camber, which may play a role in increased and uneven tyre wear. But the point i made and what i think is possibly most relevant is that changing the height of the front also changes the toe, and may change it enough to cause increased and uneven tyre wear. It's just a thought. Another point on top of that, is that as the front rises the lower control arm is no longer horizontal, and therefore as the suspension cycles the track changes more, enough to create a scrubbing action.
_________________ wrecking 9/97 EL fairmont sedan burgundy 6cyl auto 270k modBAintake |
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| MadMatt |
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DO NOT empty the car out before getting it wheelaligned.
Have your normal/average load in the car as this can change the setting. If there is not enough pressure in your tyres and you like to push through corners, the front tyres will tend to roll under scrubbing the outside shoulders.
_________________ Member Number 8804 |
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| fiend |
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{USERNAME} wrote: DO NOT empty the car out before getting it wheelaligned.
Have your normal/average load in the car as this can change the setting. If there is not enough pressure in your tyres and you like to push through corners, the front tyres will tend to roll under scrubbing the outside shoulders. Cheers, good thinking. Although I think I am running a very high pressure in fronts already. 35psi or thereabouts... 37 in back. Ho hum, just got the new wheels today and they are only 6.5" wide. Do you think I can put lower profile tyres on? Currently running 205/65/15's on standard Fairmont rims (are they 6.5" or 7"?!) I have two real nice 215/60/15's on the donors car steel wheels and four brand new 215/60/15's on the Subaru. I was hoping to put some of these on the new 6.5" ones!!! |
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| relaxed_diplomacy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ho hum, just got the new wheels today and they are only 6.5" wide. Do you think I can put lower profile tyres on? Currently running 205/65/15's on standard Fairmont rims (are they 6.5" or 7"?!) I think there is typically more than one type of fairmont rim, but in the e-series they tend to be 6.5". Quote: I have two real nice 215/60/15's on the donors car steel wheels and four brand new 215/60/15's on the Subaru. I was hoping to put some of these on the new 6.5" ones!!!
The car will be lower but look raised, the speedo will overread, check the load rating if you are carting loads, etc.
_________________ wrecking 9/97 EL fairmont sedan burgundy 6cyl auto 270k modBAintake |
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| fiend |
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Thanks heaps, once again. Everything you say has been taken into consideration and I am not going to put the mags onto the car just yet.
(Also, since the seller didn't tell me the centre holes were small (AND I DIDN'T ASK BECAUSE I AM A KNOB) the mags will not actually fit) 
FIEND, you idiot! |
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| relaxed_diplomacy |
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If they are OE (original equipment) ford fairmont mags the centre holes will be fine for a std e-series ford, unless there have been modifications.
My ford five spoke alloys take a bit of lining up before they go on, yours might be the same.
_________________ wrecking 9/97 EL fairmont sedan burgundy 6cyl auto 270k modBAintake |
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| joolz |
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So you have an EL which is over 10 years old now. Have you checked all front end bushes and ball joints. If not and seeing its both sides wearing at the same time its toe so i would be looking at the rack ends and tie rods for wear. If you have any "clunk" in the steering when turning the steering wheel back and forth with engine running (power steer assist) its likely to be worn steering components as just described. A worn rack it self would only give wandering steer and not feathering of the tyres. Wheel alignments are perfomed static (car not rolling and not under load from braking and so on) so worn components normally wont be picked up.
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| fiend |
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{USERNAME} wrote: If they are OE (original equipment) .... No, they aren't! {USERNAME} wrote: So you have an EF which is 13 years old now. Have you checked all front end bushes and ball joints. If not and seeing its both sides wearing at the same time its toe so i would .... rolling and not under load from braking and so on) so worn components normally wont be picked up.
Hi there Joolz, yeahp - good advice. There is no "clunk" or "bonk" (or any other sound of dubious nature) from the steering. There is a large knock from the left front if I run off a curb or hit a driveway. That is to be expected from having shocks that are dead and stuffed bushes I guess. Will start pulling apart all those bits over the weekend with any luck. Damn I wish I had a hoist!!! |
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| relaxed_diplomacy |
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The front struts aren't quick'n'easy to remove as one might think. My manual says to pop the upper ball joint with a lever to help remove the strut, but i wonder if they just said this as this doesn't look so easy to me.
My technique at present involves removing the swaybar link and all the bolts on the lower control arm (excluding the ball joint), shifting the hub rearwards to release the radius rod, then outwards and up to allow the strut to be extracted out through the front. Actually, sometimes i've even removed the radius rod completely.
_________________ wrecking 9/97 EL fairmont sedan burgundy 6cyl auto 270k modBAintake |
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