Thought I'd shove all my dumb questions all in the one thread:

1. Is the digital clock in the AU2 Futura supposed to be backlit of a night cause mine isn't? Bloody useless if its not.

2. My new AU2 Futura with 110,000 k's is sluggish compared to my AU1 Forte with 256000 k's. Any ideas? Plugs and leads make a difference?

3. Speaking of plugs and leads, did the AU2 come standard with the Denso iridium spark plugs? If so I think they were original, (and were pretty bad), so I just replaced with Bosch Platinum Plus. I also bought Bosch motorsport (blue) leads, however I'm wondering if its as bigger bastard as I think to get to the distributor to replace them? Currently have red motorcraft leads - original?

4. Been told discs are slightly warped. Is it as easy as the workshop manual makes it sound to replace pads and discs? (might just replace with DBA slotted). Bascially drain half master cylinder, unbolt calipers (2 bolts?), push pin in and take out (and replace) pads), unbolt disc, put on new disc, bolt up, bolt caliper back on, refill cylinder, pump the brake a few times to seat the pads. If its that easy, buggered if I'm paying the mechanic. I just don't want to start such an important safety job if there are any 'quirks' that I need to know.

5. One of the fan belt pulleys is rattly, been told bearing in it, but mechanic has to check if the bearing can be bought alone or need to replace the whole pulley - anyone know? Is this a difficult job for a newbie DIYer?

So far I think thats it.
Thanks

1 - Yep, it's supposed to be backlit. A replacement globe can be purchased from Ford.

2 - If they are the original plugs and leads, then yep it will make a difference.

3 - Yep, it is a pain, but it doesn't take too long. For me, the easiest way is to remove the airbox, and sort of twist my right arm under there, and then feed the leads through one by one.

Thanks for that.

Some more assistance pretty please: I've changed the plugs for the Bosch platinum plus and the leads for blue Bosch motorsport. Its a little better, however I didn't realise just how bad it still is until I jumped in my old AU to move it - and even just moving it around the yard from one place to another it was obvious the throttle response and power is HEAPS better in the old one. Any other ideas?

Its exhaust is pretty rusty and needs replacement from the cat all the way to the back due to holes etc, is there any way the differing airflow going out could make a difference?

Lastly (well, for the time being), my wheels squeaking was thought it might be related to the handbrake adjustment, however it seems to be the front wheels squeaking - and not a constant squeak, but a single squeak on each revolution of the wheels - ie it speeds up when going a bit faster (but can't be heard above 40k/hr or so. Not the handbrake?

Maybe a rusty disc surface from sitting for a few days, also check the diff ratio on the AU1 cause if it is higher it will feel alot chirpier in first if u are just driving around the yard.
One more thing if u have just changed plugs and leads then u could reset the ecu by removing the + lead from the battery for about 1 hour this will wipe clean the memory of ur old driving habits with the old plugs/leads in and it will reteach itself to suit ur driving habits with ur new gear, otherwise it would take a week or so to do this on its own. Plus u will notice it instantly.
The dash will display the word "base" if it has been cleared, it might run a bit rough for a few minutes while it learns the imputs from the engine again, u should drive it as normal thru this.

Would be front wheel bearings, very easy to replace.

4. Yes it's easy as it described, if you have no experience use a torque wrench to be on the safe side. The torque specifications for each important bolt will be in there. Also buy a few split pins, you'll need at least 2. Also Don't drain the master cylinder completely because air would then get in the brake fluid system.

5. Just buy a new one and put it on, mine cost $30.

The loss of power issue, try a new fuel filter, air filter, and chuck a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank.

Firstly the Au2 does NOT come standard with Denso irridium plugs (unfortunately as they are very good) Denso Irridium Xr6 turbo ones $12 each from Ford are the best, on par or just under Autolite 985's (Jim Mocks secret plugs about $4.50 each, don't buy them from JMM though.). Your holey exhaust will make a big difference in the performance of your car. This is probably the main problem. As prementioned the fuel filter & air cleaner. Put some Holden Top End Clean in ( comes from the GMC USA). Sad but you have to buy it from Holden, It is very good & will clean the injectors & head . Your 3.08 diff in your Au will slow things down. Diff gears from a standard VL Bommodore are a straight fit and a much lower ratio. You can get these cheap from a wreckers. Hope this helps

Thanks guys.

Well, it seems having reset the ECU and driving it for a while it has improved it somewhat, not far from how I would like it to be. Not sure exactly how the re-programming works, but I'm sure when I got in after work today it took off a lot quicker than it did on the way to work. I guess its gradual to a certain extent but must have some point where it becomes obvious.

I want to put any repairs/changes off for a few more weeks until I see if/when anything else becomes obvious it needs doing. The water pump has decided to leak on me, and I think I might need rear shocks (seems 'rattley')

A few other things:

Now and again theres a 'thump' in the back, when going fairly slow just before I come to a stop. Any chance its the Diff? I know its oily around the seal so needs some attention anyway.

On the same subject, if the diff needs a oil change and gasket replaced, maybe its a good time to change diff ratios to the 3.73. Might get it to a nice level of take off performance that I'd like. Upon doing a bit of reading, other than changing the speedo gear to compensate on the speedo, do I read correctly that even if I get the gears at a good price, theres a considerable expense in getting it tuned/altered for the auto changing points etc?

Also, I assume its not just a matter of getting gears from a wreckers or wherever, taking the diff cover off and just swapping the gears over is it? I need a pro?

Although I'm hoping I don't need a full exhaust, cat etc, if I happen to once it gets checked properly, I'm thinking extractors and a 2.5" might work together very nicely with the change in diff ratio - If I need to spend a few hundred, why not spend a few hundred more and make it worthwhile I reckon.

Thanks again all.