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| Bassfreak55 |
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G'day guys,
Just wondering if a pair of 7x10' would fit into the rear parcel tray of an EB2 Falcon, without having to cut out any of the tray itself? I'm just after an easy installation as I don't have time to peform an 'modification' to make it fit... On first glance, it appears the baby harness/bracket on the tray is too close to one of the speakers... FYI, the 7x10's fit into a 6x9 slot. Any suggestions? Regards, Reinder. |
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| data_mine |
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Going off your nickname, forget 7x10's and 6x9's get a real sub.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| LTDHO |
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7x10? What for?
Are you not a fan of clear sound and power?? I wouldn't even waste money on 6x9's let alone 7x10. 6.5's are the way to go, put money into decent sub amp combo. |
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| PIMP_LTD |
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{USERNAME} wrote: 7x10? What for?
Are you not a fan of clear sound and power?? I wouldn't even waste money on 6x9's let alone 7x10. 6.5's are the way to go, put money into decent sub amp combo. +1. I dont understand why anyone buys them.
_________________ Commodore australia's favorite car??? What a load of s**t |
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| Bassfreak55 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Going off your nickname, forget 7x10's and 6x9's get a real sub. Haha. Mate, I'm a cop, so probably not the best idea to build an amped 'doof doof' system  ... I'm just after something that sounds reasonably good without the expense of an amp/sub setup. I had an ampless Kenwood 7x10 setup in one of my first cars, which wasn't too bad...{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: 7x10? What for? Are you not a fan of clear sound and power?? I wouldn't even waste money on 6x9's let alone 7x10. 6.5's are the way to go, put money into decent sub amp combo. +1. I dont understand why anyone buys them. Again, I'm not interested in spending excess $$$ on a decent system on the s**t runaround EB... Just wanted best bang-for-buck. So, anyone have any idea as to what the dimensions of the parcel tray holes are? 
Regards. |
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| SLO247 |
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The holes are for the 6/6.5" speakers.
Maybe get an 8" sub, mount it under the shelf like factory and get a little cheapie 2 ch amp and bridge it. Would sound nicer and look factory. |
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| data_mine |
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^ agreed.
As you should know (as a copper) you're not allowed to cut the parcel shelf. The only way therefore to get 6x9 or bigger in would be to use spacers (MDF, plastic, fibreglass etc.)
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| Bassfreak55 |
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Okay, second question...
What are the dimensions of the speaker holes within the front doors? Maximum width, depth (without touching glass, etc)? Will 6.5" splits fit in the front? If so, where would be the best place to mount the tweeters (with the least amount of effort, that is)? Or are splits best suited to the rear? |
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| data_mine |
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Front speakers are Possibly only 4" (was that EA only? or EA-ED?) If not they'll be 6"
Splits are best for the front (no point having any speaker in the back, how many concerts have you been too where the band is behind you?) There'll be a factory location for the tweeters, use that. In the dash.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
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| fordfreak ef |
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6.5 inch splitts all round.. front/rear.. with a aftermarket decent brand 8 inch sub inn tha factoy location hooked up to a dencent small amp should do the trick and still stay legal and wont break the bank..
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| LTDHO |
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Most often misconception is the a amped sub is for Doof Doof. It is not the case, it is just streotypical. No pun intended.
I run an amped sub in all my cars and do not listen to Doof Doof. Rear speakers are for sound fill only. So cheap speakers in the standard holes will do. A small boked sub of an amp will sound clear for frequeny lower than 100Hz, provided full sound (if your fronts are good) and no one will assume you are into Doof Doof unless you play it. Oh and don't run splits in the rear, it will throw out your staging. |
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| PIMP_LTD |
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Agreed, i don't listen to doof doof, and i have JL splits in the front doors, and a 10" sub in the boot, in a small bolted down box, all simply powered by the factory H/U and stacker and amp. I have standard speakers in the rear, but they are not connected because i dont sit in the back of my own car, and as said, no good for sound stage anyway.
A sub will provide cleaner tighter bass curve than 7 x 10's, and a bolted in sub is legal, where a hacked up to fit 7 x 10's parcel tray is NOT. And lets not forgot that you dont bolt in a sub and its all of a sudden "fully sik massive bass", as the system IS adjustable. Front splits and sub for the win.
_________________ Commodore australia's favorite car??? What a load of s**t |
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| Bassfreak55 |
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So 6.5" splits in the front... I assume the 6.5" speakers replace the factory speakers in the front doors with no size issues... Where would the tweeters be placed?
Also, what is the maximum depth of the 6.5" speakers in the doors without impeding on the window mechanism? |
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| PIMP_LTD |
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Not sure of how far you can go depth wise, but my JL's aren't exactly thin. I have 6.5's in my doors, but not all 6.5's will fit, as they all have different basket sizes, so therefore its easier to go 6".
Tweeters are fitted in the factory pillar location.
_________________ Commodore australia's favorite car??? What a load of s**t |
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| ringastinga |
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i listen to everything and have 2x 12inch subs run off 1 amp and 4 speakers running off another
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