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| Disco Frank |
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ok story goes
el falcon doors will not lock with key or keyfob they cylce down then up as if there is one door open can take up to 20 tries with the key to get the car to lock even happens with the passenger side door lock im guessing that 1 of the door lock actuators is stuffed is there any way to tell which one?
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
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| KRUPTD |
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You will need to replace the drivers door actuators for the central locking.This one is different to the rest because it locks all doors.You can buy them from ford.
The passanger front actuators might be the same function as the drivers door but not 100% sure.
_________________ COMING SOON,XD WITH A TURBO...CLEVO STYLE |
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| snap0964 |
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Fronts are all the same (D or P) - rears differ, no earth wire, and are slaves.
Start with the drivers door, unplug the actuator, lock with fob, see if any difference to the other 3 doors. Also with the trim off, spray the lock with WD40, CRC, etc - dust can build up affecting the lock itself. Also check drivers operation without the trim on - may be restricted by the snipper button.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| BF XR |
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had this in the EF when it was new. locks were cycling on and off repitivly for around 10 minutes. u have to pick the right moment when it passes unlock then pull the door open and smash the crap out of the lock lol
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| Disco Frank |
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mmm
i could just change all the actuators as i have them. . .
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| XRfairmont67 |
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this happend to me one time when i refitted the door trims. it was only the lock knob causing it, was fitted too deep into the trim
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| EF Wagon |
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Posts: 69 Joined: 27th Dec 2006 Ride: EF Wagon Location: Canberra - not as bad as you think |
I've just been through this door lock cycling fun again.
2 years ago, I ended up cleaning up all the commutators (copper bit that the brushes run on) on the actuator motors with some 380 grit sandpaper. That seemed to fix it ok. This makes the resistance even in all of the actuators. This summer, it started 'cycling again'. I cleaned up the commutators again, but this time problem became worse. Today, I went around and unplugged each actuator until I isolated which one it was. I swapped the front actuators left to right to double check. Ended up being the passenger side front. Ford spare parts advised me to replace both the front actuators with the latest version (they need to be replaced in pairs). Did this and it seems to be working OK so far on a fairly warm day. It's supposed to be hot tommorrow, so I'll leave it out in the sun to test it. It was $220 for the pair. Good luck with fixing. Very frustrating to diagnose.
_________________ 96 EF Wagon, PRINS VSI LPG, Wade 1636, 4480's, Redback zorst, Metalcat, 3 angle valve job, .5mm overbore, hypertec pistons, shaved head (because the head was banana shaped when I brought it), Tickford 16" alloys, KYB shocks, 30mm sway bar, 1 1/2 degrees negative camber, tow bar, roof racks. |
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| Happy |
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yeah my passenger front failed as well and caused them all to cycle up and down - replaced it, never had a problem since!
_________________ Owning 1 of 67612 EF GLi Sedans made
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| Disco Frank |
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mmm
we pulled teh drivers door one off and replaced with same drama might do the passenger side and see what happens EF wagon why on earth would they need to be replaced in pairs?
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
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| EF Wagon |
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Posts: 69 Joined: 27th Dec 2006 Ride: EF Wagon Location: Canberra - not as bad as you think |
Not exactly sure why they need to be replaced in pairs, but I suspect the BCM doesn't like different resistance or operating speeds in the actuators. I presume the later ones have slightly different internals to the early ones. Sounds like Ford produced 3 or 4 different upgrades to try and fix the cycling problem.
Getting different stories from different parts people too. Two years ago, I was told I'd have to replace all of the actuators and possibly the BCM. Now I'm being told to replace actuators in pairs. It's possible the one you took off is OK and the one still in the car is faulty. I'd swap the one you took off with the old one that's still on the car. I'd also test the front and rear ones by disconnecting each actuator and testing on a hot day while it's in the sun. You could also test the resistance on each actuator while disconnected. On mine, readings around the 9 or 10 ohms indicated trouble (on a 20 degree day). Look for one that is significantly higher than the others. Remember that the resistance in these can double on a hot day though. You could easily spend a day or two sorting this out.
_________________ 96 EF Wagon, PRINS VSI LPG, Wade 1636, 4480's, Redback zorst, Metalcat, 3 angle valve job, .5mm overbore, hypertec pistons, shaved head (because the head was banana shaped when I brought it), Tickford 16" alloys, KYB shocks, 30mm sway bar, 1 1/2 degrees negative camber, tow bar, roof racks. |
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| EF Wagon |
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Posts: 69 Joined: 27th Dec 2006 Ride: EF Wagon Location: Canberra - not as bad as you think |
Replacing the two front actuators with new ones appears to have worked well. It was 37 degrees in Canberra today and I couldn't make the locks cycle no matter what I did.
I noticed that the new ones go up and down a little more slowly than the old ones and are quieter too. Good luck with diagnosing which one actuator or part is giving you problems.
_________________ 96 EF Wagon, PRINS VSI LPG, Wade 1636, 4480's, Redback zorst, Metalcat, 3 angle valve job, .5mm overbore, hypertec pistons, shaved head (because the head was banana shaped when I brought it), Tickford 16" alloys, KYB shocks, 30mm sway bar, 1 1/2 degrees negative camber, tow bar, roof racks. |
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