mate of mine has the exact turbo kit from snort it is the exact same turbo but doesnt have water cooling but mine does. and his has been going for a year now with no problems

Water cooled housings prevent oil coking when car is very hot and engine is turned off..
Don't really need a lot of coolant flow .. Just saturated with coolant with no vapour locks..

im in the process of doing this atm and i have decided too tap into the heater pipe just off the thermostat housing and the return it in the return line from the heater into the back of the water pump.. any thoughts

The temperature variation between the input and the output to the radiator is not great. When the temperature just in front of thermostat housing hits 85 odd degrees your needle on temp guage is showing HOT - but your turbo is still way way hotter than that so it will still be providing the required cooling.

Therefore, shouldn't matter sweet bugger all about taking the water from somewhere where it is only a couple of degrees less... Is a turbo ever going to be 80 celcius or less? NOPE. Is water ever going to be 200 celcius or more? NOPE.

Good thoughts in principal though. Can someone else please check all the different temperatures of water at strategic points around the system? I don't mind doing it, but I ain't even got a bloody turbo, so what do I care?

Cant see why a sealed stand alone set up could not work.

Just run a tank cooler and hoses or if you really want add a electric water pump to it.

Hot water rises and cool drops, this will create circulation.

Have the tank higher than turbo with fill cap, this stops the chance of getting vapour lock.

You will just need to size cooler and tank size to govern tempeture limits to run.

I have also heard before that turbos make more power the hotter they run, the main problem is the oil frying which limits how hot the turbo can run .

You could even use a cooler with fan mounted on it under the floor run the lines up to turbo which could be hidden easier.
Run the tank beside the brake booster.

just my thoughts and opinions.

Okay --- Radiator input (ie after water has been through engine) measured a whopping great 89 degree's on my old and overheating EF 6 cylinder.

Engine Input (ie after water has been through radiator) is a whopping 81 degrees Celsius.

Water in overflow tank is at 77 for some reason

Up to you what you make of that on your (not so badly overheating) engine....

Might do the hoses at heater tap and elsewhere if I get onto a hoist or over a pit later today. Cheerio.