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TURBO_GHIA |
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they run to the boot where a water tank which can have ice around it ,which bring down the temps
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EBXR8380 |
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Here's a better pic..
The header tank is now alloy.. Imo I'm not convinced the water to air made much power gains. But it should be far more consistent in hot conditions at the drags.. The BTR is just NOT up to it though... BTW that's the fuel tank in the top pic. Where the air cleaner would be.. The chilled water container is where fuel tank was.. Ice is put directly into water.. There is a screen to keep ice off the inlet / outlet pipes etc... That is a T6 housing...
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low_ryda |
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yes it is turning out quite a neat thread.
Quote: A welded round plenum as on Micheal's is stronger. 90* welds and staight sides can flex and crack.. i'm a boilermaker by trade and never ever have i ever had a weld of mine fail in service.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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EBXR8380 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: yes it is turning out quite a neat thread. i thought the lines were for a wet nos kit (methanol or water/methanol instead of water) Quote: A welded round plenum as on Micheal's is stronger. 90* welds and straight sides can flex and crack.. i'm a boilermaker by trade and never ever have i ever had a weld of mine fail in service. Yes its NOT so much the welds.. It with 3 or 4mm alloy and flat surface, they tend to flex. But if its made with round tube or an angle on each panel it won't flex.. So if using straight alloy ? It pays to have slight bend in each section.. The welds don't break .. The alloy breaks around the weld.. Having straight sides we had in increase top section to 6mm.. No flex now at up to 18Lb.. A round tube adapted will take more boost than a square one.. We reversed the way the bolts hold manifold on also... We drilled out threads and tapped threads on inlet so we can get to them.. The manifold on EB6on boost is welded as its using the old EB long runner manifold.. Imo the shorter AU style would be better, then boxed .. Being forced induction..
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fiend |
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AWESOME. Totally stoked, with my limited knowledge and only one year actually looking at cars. Totally stoked that I even recognised what I was looking at. Totally stoked that someone has done it and the whole water injection into the I6 4.0 theory is not just rubbish!
I like it a lot. A hell of a lot actually. I should never have thrown away that spare BBM I had! May just have to go grab another at some point and start drilling!.. Thanks for the ideas! You should have had slight power gains going by my very rough science and very very novice mechanical knowledge. But, like you say, it will make all the difference on hot track days when others are suffering and getting nowhere near the best times out of their machine, yours should tick along consistently well. Big amount effort - but boy does it look do-able with all that space where the old air supply and air-con units have been shot off...... More photos - keep them coming! This has totally re-ignited my enthusiasm! |
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low_ryda |
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i understand what your saying, thats just piss poor engineering though.
what wall thickness tube would you use ? i wouldn't use anything under 3mm anyway. thats the beauty of ally, you can overkill without adding too much weight. ally has next to no structual strength though so your already asking a bit much of it for a boosted car so therefore you can't use light guage material. i'm thinking of making one out of 4130 chromolly (at least the exaust side) so therefore could cut back the material thickness 3 fold. it's all about strength vs weight otherwise everything would be made from seamless steam pipe
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boosted22 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: it can be done not that hard heres a pic of my bbm sorry to jump the thread, but whats exactly involved with turning the top half around like that, have you cut the middle section of the top half then rewelded or something. |
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TURBO_GHIA |
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yep thats all i did then machined it flat
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EBXR8380 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: i understand what your saying, that's just piss poor engineering though. what wall thickness tube would you use ? i wouldn't use anything under 3mm anyway. that's the beauty of ally, you can overkill without adding too much weight. ally has next to no structural strength though so your already asking a bit much of it for a boosted car so therefore you can't use light gauge material. i'm thinking of making one out of 4130 chromoly (at least the exhaust side) so therefore could cut back the material thickness 3 fold. it's all about strength vs weight otherwise everything would be made from seamless steam pipe 4mm is fine.. as said the engineering is having round plenum not straight sides .. As in most pressure vessels, std manifolds.. In most cases with water injection.. It has been found a mix of metho 50/50 helps keep intake temps down ..Some say they prefer 100% metho or alcohol on race days.. Some info..http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/index.html http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/ ... _info.html http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/ ... _info.html
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low_ryda |
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ok point taken i'm having a petty argument that could go on forever heh
still wanna see some more pics though.
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justa6 |
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i'll have to eat my pride here. round plenum's are definitly the go, mine had square edge's and what do ya know, 20 pound and it split. not straight away, just what ebxr380 said, started bending then cracked. so put a standard one back on and working on another. |
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