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PIMP_LTD |
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Why hello people,
I have a wierd climate control problem. For a couple of months now (i've only just bothered to look at it) it has seemed as if my car has lost its air con gas, however i only just resealed and filled the system 4 months ago. So i just have a squiz at it then, and it seems when i push on the little pin in the valves to fill it, there is definatly gas pressure, and the compressor still activates. When i turn it on, there is a small hissing sound coming from the TX Valve area, but i dont get how, as wouldn't this cause all the gas to escape? And when i turn off the compressor, the hissing stops and there is still gas pressure. Anyone had this sort of drama?
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Krytox |
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Liquid is compressed at around 450psi, it reaches the evap, and expands into gas, as the evap has larger pipes so your prolly hearing the noise this is making.
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low_ryda |
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air con hoses in my car running 450psi ? thats outright fugin scary lol
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PIMP_LTD |
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Krytox wrote: Liquid is compressed at around 450psi, it reaches the evap, and expands into gas, as the evap has larger pipes so your prolly hearing the noise this is making. So you reckon this noise is normal, ok cool. So this must mean the gas is being circulated as normal? If so, what else could be wrong? I know my blend door is working. Thanbks
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Krytox |
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My bad, 250-300psi!
There could be a few issues, fan rubbing, a leak as you stated, etc etc. But if your aircon works, and it still works in a week with regular use, then I'd be ruling out a leak.
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PIMP_LTD |
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So you reckon if there was a leak, it wouldn't have lasted the 3 or so months it did?
I had a thought of maybe my heater tap is jammed, but i'm pretty sure that it is working, maybe i'll check again. Because if it is jammed open, and mixing with the cool air wilkl make it normalish yeah?
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PIMP_LTD |
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I just went downstars and started the car for further testing. I noticed while the car is off, the heater tap is out (the diaphragm) then once started even with all CC modes off, the heater tap pulled in all the way. So is this a problem, or is the heater tap in position off?
I'm just letting it warm up now to see whether normal heater fucntion works as it should. EDIT: I turned the temp up to 32 deg, and tried a few temps in between, and it seems the heat works fine, albiet not real hot as my engine runs rather cool. Still no cool though, could the compressor be at fault, even though its clutch is still engaging?
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Froudey |
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PIMP_LTD wrote: I just went downstars and started the car for further testing. I noticed while the car is off, the heater tap is out (the diaphragm) then once started even with all CC modes off, the heater tap pulled in all the way. So is this a problem, or is the heater tap in position off? I'm just letting it warm up now to see whether normal heater fucntion works as it should. EDIT: I turned the temp up to 32 deg, and tried a few temps in between, and it seems the heat works fine, albiet not real hot as my engine runs rather cool. Still no cool though, could the compressor be at fault, even though its clutch is still engaging? in theory the clutch shouldn't engage when there is no gas in the system, (so i have been told by a air con installer friend of mine) get a mate or missus or something ask them to turn the ac on while your looking at the a/c compressor.
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PIMP_LTD |
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Yea i though so too, and the repair manual states it also. Have checked compressor and clutch is functioning perfectly. Not sure whether there could still be a problem inside the comp? One would assume it would make bad sounding noises if it was internally stuffed.
Damn it, i may have to take it to a air con man, so he can rape my wallet.
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snap0964 |
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Set at max cool (16C)While the compressor clutch is engaged, feel the evaporator outlet pipe at the firewall - the one that returns to the compressor, it should be fairly cold, and most likely have condensation, even may ice up slightly.
You can force the compressor to stay on by feeding 12v to the line by a jumper wire - limit this to a couple of minutes at a go. If the above is as described, sounds like a blenddoor movement issue, if the jumper wire gives you the above, then the evap sensor may be suspect. If the pipe is not very cold any which way, then low gas is likely. The heater tap requires vacuum to close, so at max heat and before startup, the arm position is the same.
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PIMP_LTD |
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Hey snap,
just tried your suggestion, said pipe is not cold nor have condensation, and it seems the blend door is working as normal. I guess it must just be low gas, this really makes me wonder how it is low (cant see/find leak or green die), but its the only solution i guess.
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madeaspack |
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we gas tractors and trucks at work and they can last a year and when they next come in the gas is low from a leak but not empty,also could be a tx valve fault,thes controls the pressures and some times can get stuck in a closed position not letting gas circulate properly.if there is the correct amount of gas in the system id get the gas sucked out and replace the tx valve.it is a common cause of ac problems
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PIMP_LTD |
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It seems after testing that the tx valve is working, so i'm looking more at a small leak. This week i'm going to put it under a UV light to see if i can find a leak.
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