Hi all, some might remember my post some months ago seeking assistance to retro fit factory cruise to an ED GLI.
Well its finally done and it WORKS!
I used factory bits from an EB fairmont wreck and you'll need the steering wheel, the cruise computer (MUST also get the plug and a section of wiring), the vacuum pump, the bellows, the throttle cable the vacuum brake/elect swith AND the 6 inch lead to connect the brake switch to the loom.
all hardware is an easy bolt up but the under dash wiring is tedious as there's next to no room and you'll have to patch into the GL loom - its only going to have your wires if its a GL with the "electrics" option (power windows etc).
Watch out for wiring colour changes across the models as they don't exactly match the workshop manual.
Anyway if anyone is interested in doing this send me a message and I'll give more detail.

jd

Mate,

Top stuff, I would lilke to know more about it. I have all the bits and pieces to put in my EB, but I would like to know the in's and out's on how to do it. Any help would be great.

Cheers,

jase

Ok, I'll try to be brief - you should easily be able to complete this in a day!
1. unless you're a skinny midget remove the driver's side seat to give you access to the underdash wiring
2. remove the windscreen washer bottle - the vacuum pump fits up behind here and bolts through the panel that holds the bonnet hinges. The wiring loom is already there with a plug to fit the pump. The vacuum line needs to be connected but make sure you connect it to the black spout with the tiny hole, not the big white one (it'll fit either but only one works)
3. the actuator (bellows) fits up in a similar position on the other side of the engine bay and your vacuum line connects the two, via a "T" piece to the brake switch. Throttle cable goes across rocker cover and clips into existing plastic tray and connects to throttle body at existing link point
4. if the cruise computer comes with its bracket it will bolt to the upper side of the pedal assembly above the accelerator pedal (at this satge have your plug and some wiring loom connected
5. steering wheel is a straight swap and no additional wiring is needed. When you have your wheel off note the yellow wire coming from the contact terminal (upper RHS of boss as you sit in the car) because you'll need to patch into that later
6. brake vacuum switch goes into the pedal assembly in precut hole (if yours is a manual ditto for clutch switch)
7 wiring - out of your cruise computer note the folwoing wires (this is why you'll need at least a bit of the original loom)
orange yellow - switch wire and goes to the yellow wire mentioned above (manual says orange yellow but mine was yellow). You'll patch into this at the plug where the wires exit the sterring column assembly
Grey/black, brown/black and white/red go to the vacuum unit and these wires exist in the loom coming through your firewall. find the large plug and note that the wires enter the plug but do not exit. Patch these wires into the plug to make the connection. (on mine grey/black was actually grey/yellow)
pink/blue, violet/blue and white go to the dash assembly via another large plug exiting the steering column area. Once again you'll see these wires entering on the wheel side of the plug (on mine pink/blue was just pink)but not exiting the other side - you need to patch in. The white wire runs to the speed sensor, the pink/blue to a pink wire to the dash light, and violet to the tacho sensor (all these are there even in the GL)
brown - ignore this its used on some models to dim the "cruise" light when you dim your dash lights - not necessary to use
red/white goes to one side of your new brake vacuum swith and you'll need a d**k little 6" lead to cconnect to the prongs on the switch. from here the wire leaves as red/green and goes to the non-power side of your original brake switch (if manual repeat for the clutch switch)
red/green goes to the power side of the "stop lamp" fuse. you can pick this up at the fuse (too hard) or the power side of the original brake switch
Test
1. "cruise" light should illuminate when you switch on with engine running
2. suck on vacuum tube to make sure bellows work and brake switch is not leaking vacuum
no real need to adjust cables beyond soft connection as up to normal highway cruising the system is very forgiving of slack cables
hope this helps! any questions just ask

Guys

got an email to my email address re this post but when I respond it says undeliverable. If anyone out there has a query re this post just post a reply and I'll see it.

regards

johnd