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groupa86 |
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G'Day Everyone,
I'm looking to improve the performance of my EF XR8, the throttle body, EGR spacer and MAF being only around 55mm look like a good starting point. I've heard about guys getting hold of larger 70mm body MAF's from latter model's (AU2) and changing the electronic's (different connection) by fitting the original MAF electronics to the bigger housing. Appears easy enough, however wouldn't some kind of recalabration need to be done with the ECM to allow for the correct fuel mixture?. I'm assuming as you can flow more air, the engine might lean out at higher rpm or lose some drivabilty through the range. Does any one have any ideas Thanks |
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Waggin |
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The AU MAF body is a great option. There is a 73mm C+L MAF on eBay at the moment - also perfect for you.
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [{DESCRIPTION}] |
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groupa86 |
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Thanks for the reply Waggin, I'm keen on doing the AU upgrade, throught the AU2 220kw MAF would be the go, but I'm still unsure on wether an ECU or injector upgrade is also needed?
If I fit the bigger MAF will the ECU still be able to run the right fuel amount or will it run lean? |
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millard455 |
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some people have dramas with AFR's after doing the swap but others have no problems, best bet is to give it a run on a dyno just to make sure.
might aswell add a au tickford snorkle to your list while your at it, if you havent got one already.
_________________ EL XR8 SERIES 2, 5SPD, HOT CHILLI RED, 200 ODD RWKW OF V8 FUN AND GAMES |
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nc5l |
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Hi, i havn't posted much around here but i have been researching a bit on maf's lately.
There are two options with the maf first of all is the c&l maf housing using the "sample tube" system, all you do is order a housing and a sample tube "calibrated" to your injector size and bolt on your electronic's . I have read that this is ok but it skew's the load tables as the ecu does not know the real amount of air the engine is recieveing. My brother has one in his xr8,he has 19lb injectors and the sample tube he got with the c&l was a 24lb tube. Currently the car runs better with the maf disconnected for obvious reasons. Second option is getting a larger maf complete electronics from a stock ford such as a xr8 sprint or Au xr8(these have a different connector but with a little electronic know how, the pinouts are virtualy the same) but doing this WILL require a modified tune in your ecu. There is a function in the eec-iv & eec-v called the "maf transfer" it is basicaly a table that allows the ecu to work out at what maf voltage (0v to 5v) is-to how many kg of air is flowing per hour (kg/hr), this table has 30 entrys. Most off the shelf performance maf's come with a "maf transfer" function on paper, and for most 2nd hand ford maf's the maf transfere are availiable on the net. So simply bolting a au maf on is not the best idea unless you get a ecu chip (for good quality low price ecu chip's see techcore.com.au) This is the path i am currently taking, i managed to score a 80mm maf to suit a 2001 mustang for under $110aud from ebay usa. With a techcore ecu chip. Hope this helps, Regards dan. (sorry if the spelling is off i'm using my mobile) |
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Scaffy |
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As millard said, some people have problems with the AU housing and some don't. I understand where you're coming from nc5l, but some people can throw an AU housing on and their afrs are pretty well spot on, due to the 'safety factor' in the factory tune which is on the richer side due to the extreme conditions that our cars can be exposed to in this great land of ours.
If you do it, you really need to throw your car on a dyno to check the afrs, or have yourself a wideband o2 sensor and guage.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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