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drummertom |
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Just wondering if anyone know how to replace valve springs on an ED motor. Either that or there is a tech doc that I cant find.
Thanks guys Tom
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gutza |
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Hi
Do you want to replace them with the head still on the car or with the head off ???? |
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drummertom |
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Head on preferably. I've got the compressor and hose attachment for spark plug hole. I've also got the spring compressor.
cheers
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gutza |
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Hi There
I think this is the link you're looking for. It explains about using an air compressor to remove the valves. But as it says, be very careful. Give it a good read through before starting. http://www.fordmods.com/documents.php?d=80 |
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Steady ED |
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The RPD doco doesn't really cover valve spring change.
Really basic go over, assuming rocker gear is already removed.. I use the rope method for keeping valves up, find it's easier on the 4Ls and also you don't have to worry about air pressure leaking past rings if the motor has a few kms on it, or the motor turning over on you! Also remember to stuff newspaper/paper towel/rags into oil galleries. 1. turn motor over till piston is at TDC for the cylinder you are working (screwdriver down plug hole to test). 2. stuff rope/string down plug hole, as much as you can fit in there. Make sure there is a length hanging out the plug hole so you can get it back out 3. attach valve spring compressor to spring you are working on. Carefully compress, making sure compressor is attached correctly (cheap ones can slip off spring). Valve may drop slightly, but if you have enough string/rope in the cylinder it should still be high enough to be able to remove the collets/valve locks. 4. Use magnet (makes it alot easier) to remove collets/valve locks. 5. Remove spring and retainer assembly, uncompress, save retainer for use on new spring (if stock retainers are to be reused). 6. Recommend replacing valve stem seals if they haven't been done before, and you have them (may as well while spring is off) 7. Compress new spring and retainer assembly, as much as you can to make it easier (careful with spring compressor again). 8. Place new spring/retainer assembly onto spring pad, place collets carefully into retainer. 9. release spring compressor slowly, making sure collets seat correctly. 10. Move onto next spring. Thats how I do it anyway, have only done it a couple of times so I'm by no means an expert! It's not a hard job IMO, if you are pretty competent mechanically. Pretty time consuming though, and your back will be killing you by the end of it
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
Steady ED wrote: 1. turn motor over till piston is at TDC for the cylinder you are working (screwdriver down plug hole to test). 2. stuff rope/string down plug hole, as much as you can fit in there. Make sure there is a length hanging out the plug hole so you can get it back out thats basically how ive done it, but i turned the crank until the piston was at its lowest position in the cylinder i was working on. Then i stuffed as much rope in as i could, and then turned the crank further so the piston pushes all the rope hard against the valves. Also give the top of each retainer a tap with hammer and socket before starting as they can stick together |
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Steady ED |
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Yep what fordfairmont said, that way is heaps betterer!!
And +1 on the retainer tap, forgot that.
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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drummertom |
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Thanks guys,
I used the compressor trick and it worked a treat. Thanks for the help Tom
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