lol
convenient
just another one of those engineering marvels

no. it wasnt any fast and the furious driving.

it was within the first weeks of owning the car when the brakes were due from the previous owner.

and when your pulling a dual axel trailer you need to slow down

alright so how do i go about replacing the clutch

how about with the BA SSS Auto's? they have the sports sequensial shift part isnt that meant to be used like a manual? i have an xr6 and i only drive in SSS coz i hate auto's and miss my manual. Am i doing harm to my gearbox by using the gears to go up and down?
Cheers

Jay

As above, it started in EF2. I believe it wasnt cost cutting, that it was due to warranty issues when owners & dealers filled their transmissions with either Dextron (from the older 3spds) or Engine Oil. Both caused transmission failures and big problems for warranty.

well it only uses the clutch when engine braking if you dont know what that is its when your basically giving it no throttle down a slope
the higher the rpm the more load on the clutch i believe

so basically its be fine to use it to hold gears under load on the way up but probably best to let it do the downshifts

that being said before i knew it was bad i used to allways drop the gear down when braking and down a hill and my box is still going strong and the engine braking is perfect

Your beliefs are wrong. Ford will not warrant any claims for unortharised servicing or wrong fluids being used - That is why they supply the owners handbook for the correct grade of oils to be used & to prove the car has been serviced at the correct intervals if a warranty claim is placed - No stamped book - no claim.

If you Dextron 2 or 3 or type "M" fluid in a BTR, It makes the lock up clutch in the convertor shudder due to the wrong friction co-efficient.

i thought dextron did worse than that i was told it goes thick and screws badly with the box but im probably wrong

and i agree ford definetely DONT accept warranty claims if the wrong oil is used

Have you had any experience in auto's?

Pull the bellhousing off, remove the lock-up o-ring off the input shaft & pull the pump out.

Pull the input shaft out & inside the alloy drum attached to it is 3 clutch packs. The 1 on the input shaft end is the C1 clutch (3-4 clutch)

The opposite end of the drum is a splined hub. Under it there is 2 clutch packs. The first 1 is the C2 (Drive clutch). The C4 clutch is the smaller 1 under that - It has 3 friction plates.

The oil that you are thinking about that stuffs auto's is called Hollingdale

It was made by a company that used to recycle transmission fluid, refine it & put special additives in it so it was compatible with all autos. The trouble was, after a few weeks the additives used to go haywire and start to gum up the internals with varnish & if left long enough, it would form into a jelly type mess resulting in no drive. A local cheap charlie trans shop used it for a few months & the resulting comebacks nearly sent him broke. If your transmission was a victim of that cheap rubbish - It was easier to throw it away & start with a new box, Not even a hot engine block tank could get all of it off & you could just forget about the valvebody & solenoids!

There was an episode on a current affair about Hollingdale a few years ago - I'd say there would be a few drums of it still sitting in the corners of some workshops...