Thought I might post my ride here while I can .

It's an ED Fairmont, Cobalt Blue, September 93.

The car was involved in a prang mid last year, most unfortunately happening to be a absolute piece of s**t Lexus RS300 Something or Other 4 wheel Drive , thank god I know how to get round amii and their insurance , as I cheated them into cutting the bill I owed them by half , and thank god it didn't have reversing sensor's either , not only that, the driver himself isn't exactly the best of drivers either, as I see him on a near day to day basis going to and from work .

It has the usual Fairmont/Fairmont Ghia stuff, along with some added extra's, such as the Half Leather/Half Velour Seats, and the Fairmont Ghia Door Trims, which I re-cleared with a specialized Timber Polyurethane Gloss Clear, which I think is better than the Automotive 2 Pack Clear, as the clear I have used makes the woodgrain section look more like wood than Plastic in my opinion.

Other Mod's include:

XR8 Alloy Tailshaft, courtesy of FTG Auto Salvage, $40 special .
RDA Slotted Front Rotors.
Rollermaster Vernier Gear (this was installed before hand by SteadyED before I purchaced the car).
AU Headgasket, look for a special thread in the 6 cylinder section for more details there .
CHE Nascar Spec Valve Seats.
Super Low King Springs, coupled with Pedder's Comfort Gas Shocks.
3:27 EBII LSD Diff.
Xforce Extractor's along with 2.5" Exhaust System.
Clear Altezza Front Indicator's along with AU Side Repeater's.

Future Mod's include:
Having a play around with a set of Bendix Track Pads.
Woodgrain Steering Wheel.
Woodgrain Window Switch, Transmission and Radio Facia surrounds.
Cresent Motorsports Camshaft.
FTR Rims.
XH Snorkel.

I have done a few other sections of Maintenance, such as replacing Outer Rear Axle Bearings, PCV Valve, some of the necessity's to get through a Roadworthy, and now the Radiator Cap, which decided that after 15 year's of work, it would spit the dummy on the way to the Motor Show with Fordmods last night at the worst possible of peak hour traffic and it took me 15 minutes to get off the kings way exit and to some sort of Car Parking Space!

Some other maintenance is required, such as Front Wheel Bearings, and possibly the Inner Carrier Rear Axle Bearings, which I didn't do in the first place because they are an a*** to do.

Pics are coming! just in the next hr or 3!

Last edited by SpeedyED on Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Thought I'd add to the first post of mods that I forgot to add .

The Head has CHE Nascar Spec Valve Seats, they are LPG Friendly (the head has come off a different car, which ran on LPG), and they are designed to take a consistent pounding of up to 8000rpm.

Not long ago I broke the car remote , so I replaced that with a new one with smartlock written on it, which the old one didn't have written on it in the first place .

Here's the latest update of the ED:[attachment=1]Woodgrain Steering Wheel 001.jpg[/attachment]n Steering Wheel 004.jpg[/attachment]

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I'll take a couple more during the day, because the flash show's up too much brightness as it was done in the dark

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MMMMMM MOMO and Wood.

Looks great, and bet it feels good too.

BenJ

YEAH!, I'm that paranoid about my woodgrain that I now carry a cloth in the glove box (which now doesn't want to open for some reason ), along with a sunshield to protect the woodgrain on the wheel!, even turning corner's I even try to grip the leather part instead of the wood!

The Car isn't garaged, as mum's crappy Hyundai Lantra Sports Wagon takes priority . So I wash it when I can, which it still needs to be washed before I take photo's of the exterior, damned radiator caps .

looking good. you need some outside pics of the car... the woodgrain looks awesome with the cobalt paint

Damn you!!! Where did you find that momo wheel....I've been looking for one for a long, long time. Was one on ebay a couple of weeks ago which I was winning and then the mongrel cancelled the auction
Good score mate...looks great
Cheers,
Mick

That's top secret

Nah it isn't actually, I paid premium price for it though, and I don't intend to sell it with the car, I plan on keeping it for some time.

I purchased the wheel from FTG Auto Salvage.

And the car needs a wash now! it's been raining dirt , as we have a 4 acre block, myself and the little brother got carried away and did some skids on the dirt, as to make it an even better reason to get the car washed .

A upgrade that I will do in the near future, is to upgrade my brake lines, along with slotted rear rotor's and a decent set of pad's (I purchased burson pad's to get through the roadworthy 7-8 months ago, and now I've used them for a bit, boy do they make some dust!), I'm thinking of purchasing, as something different to everyone else, a set of Pagid Street/Track Pad's from Barrie Smith Motorsports, who is a forum sponsor.

Well today I decided to check the timing on the ED, after abit of self searching and figuring out, I worked out that after I did they head gasket change, I'd managed to take the timing out by a s**t load, it was retarded, alot..... Because the car was pinging (no where near as much using shell's VPower), and after pm'ing arm79, I found that the timing needs to be set at the IDC Mark, something which isn't exactly said on these forums , never the less, I got there, I've also noticed that now I've got the correct timing, the transmission is more friendly to me, it doesn't jolt between D and R, and it idles better .

Tomorrow's job will be to purchase some front wheel bearings from a local Geelong company by the name of "Rob Hamilton Bearings". I've already done the outer bearings on the diff (didn't bother about the carrier bearings though, I'm told they are a mission to do), but I can noticeably hear front wheel bearing noises, like the noise disappears under breaking, and I can definatly hear something while cornering, if the front wheel bearings don't solve the problem, then the only one's left to tackle are the carrier bearings.

you dont think timing could be out because you havnt released the tensioner, as per other thread?

Not sure, I must say something that I didn't say in that thread before hand.

When I did the head gasket, I also took out the throttle body and gave it a clean, because I had also replaced the PCV Valve, and when I did that, I also disconnected the connection to the distributer, that could have been enough to take the timing out of wack.

The timing chain does not rattle any more like it used to, so it could be that I'm ok, however I will in the close future take off the power steering pump, and try and get that middle bolt out, and in the process, replace the 2 o-rings that sit behind them.

just a small note.. its TDC (top dead center) not ITC it should be obvious to anyone that the big mark in the center means thats where its ment to be.. or 0 degrees

I've been told that the timing needs to be set on the IDC mark, and when I was fiddling around with the head gasket, I had set the timing too far advanced, way too far.

This info was given to me via a very reliable source on these forums, if the source see's this, he/she is willing to post their knowledge

Added another mod to the first post .

The car has RDA Slotted Front Rotor's, courtesy of Geelong Clutch and Brake Specialists, recommended to me by Ford Spare Parts themselves.