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bunghole |
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Hey guys!
I went to start my car the other day just like every normal day and it just clicked instead of starting. i thought this would be the starter motor but i replaced it and it did the exact thing. i tested the connections to make sure there was voltage to the motor...all good! I then lowered the car back down off the jack and it started with no problems at all :S So i drove it to the petrol station and it wouldn't start again same problem clicked and nothing happened. Moved the car forward and little and started just like normal! Drove the car back home and tried to see if it would start back up and nothing, just the single click...moved it forward and nothing so does anyone have a clue why my car would be doing this.....cant be starter motor as i have changed it with 2 different ones and they were both in perfect workin order. please help!! thanks
_________________ vaaaaaauuuuummmmmmmmmmmmmm ppsshhhhhhhhhhhhhtt vaaaaauuuummmmmm |
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Johnny C |
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Check voltage at your battery, Load test as well. Check voltage to starter also.
Check wiring to the starter motor. Check the earths. Check the starter relay. thats all i've got. should be of some help |
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alfy12 |
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The click your hearing is most likely your starter relay. You may have a faulty relay (contacts have carbon on them from arcing) or your wiring from your relay to the starter solenoid is intermittent. When you changed the starter motor over, how did the spade connector on the starter solenoid look? Any sign of getting hot or covered in oil? It is also possible that it could be the ignition switch but if you can hear a click, i'd think the switch is ok.
As Johnny C said, make sure your battery is fully charged (specific gravity if you have a hydrometer) and all your electrical connections are clean. Pay close attention to the +battery too starter motor cable and also the -battery too engine cable. To rule out your battery wiring, you could manufacture a wire long enough to go from your starter solenoid to your battery. Fit a spade connector to one end and just bare the other end. Remove your solenoid spade connection (the one from the ignition circuit) and fit your newly manufactured wire in its place. Make sure your car is in park/neutral and hand brake on. Touch the other end of your manufatured wire on the positive battery terminal. The starter should engage and turn the engine. This at least eliminates the battery cables and starter assembly.
_________________ NF Fairlane: Non Factory Dual Fuel - New coolant tank, New fuel injectors, New fuel pump, New earth cable, ECU capacitors replaced, New O2 sensor, leads and plugs, New Radiator/Condensor cleaned. 483,000kms. AU I6 Powered. Struts, Shockies, Tie rods and ball joints replaced. |
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bunghole |
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Thanks for your help guys.
yes i did check for voltage at the starter motor and its definetly there for the constant and when the ignition is switched there is 12volt. When i turn the key its almost like the starter is shooting out to the flywheel but isnt spinning which leads me to think maybe somthing could be jammed?
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smegoalll |
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damage on ring gear/flywheel the motor only stops in the same few places so it wears un evenly check to see if the teeth on the flywheel arn't to stuffed to let it engage
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Sturmovik |
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Replace your starter relay
_________________ 1993 ED XR6 5speed Polynesian Green. Project car. |
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66 coupe |
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Try hitting the handbrake handle next time it doesnt start, while holding the key in the start position.
It could be a bad smartlock module |
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ausedwagon |
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i second that hit the handbrake or just under the dash to the left. it will be the smart lock playing funny buggers... works as an immobilizer too now lol
_________________ 94 White ED Wagon |
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alfy12 |
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Why would it be the smartlock if he is hearing a click? The click is either the starter relay or solenoid operating. I thought if smartlock was active, the starter relay wouldn't function? Am I missing something.
_________________ NF Fairlane: Non Factory Dual Fuel - New coolant tank, New fuel injectors, New fuel pump, New earth cable, ECU capacitors replaced, New O2 sensor, leads and plugs, New Radiator/Condensor cleaned. 483,000kms. AU I6 Powered. Struts, Shockies, Tie rods and ball joints replaced. |
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NCIILANE |
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Auto or Manual? Sounds like a similar issue I'm having with my EB. The safety switch on the side of the auto box could be had it (cream coloured oval shaped unit with 2 cables connected to it on passengers side). When you say you moved the car and it starts, I assume you are putting it into Neutral, moving car and then back to Park??? To test it if it's not too far gone, hold the ignition key to start and wriggle the shifter around in park....if it starts, then you can either dissmantle it and clean the contacts or buy another. My 2 cents
Mick Here's one on EvilBay....not cheap though so need to be sure http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEUTRAL-START-IN ... 240%3A1318
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