Hi Guys

I have upgraded the motor in my car to EL motor with bbm. It has Dev 5 upgrade and total bottom end rebuild. I am currently running the standard ECU with a piggyback but am suffering some low down driveability issues. I have spoken with Paul at CVE who reckons if I upgrade to the EL ecu he can tune it better. My problem is I have had the car to 5 tuners now who have all said the same thing that they can tune the car but none of them have been able to.
Is this guy right in saying to switch to the EL ecu? what are the pitfalls and how does that effect the BCM and other things. I have smartlock, I have installed thermos running on a Davies Craig switch and I have an aftermarket alarm hooked into central locking. If I do get an EL ECU what catch codes do I need to look out for. My Falcon is a basic GLi.

I hope someone can help. Cheers

Switching to an EL ecu alone will even give you benefits, as the current ecu is not suited to the BBM anyway. If i am not mistaken, CVE are distributors and tuners of the TI Performance chips, which are not only cheap but effective. I have one in my EF motor with wade 1543b, lots of headwork, pacies, full 2.5", an AU injectors, and it dont miss a beat, and is acctually pretty driveable down low.

Firstly i suggest you to read this thread

{DESCRIPTION}

This will answer alot of questions.

Thanks so much. Paul ran my car up on his dyno and pulled 172rwkw but it is lacking low down drivability. It is hunting all over the place when in drive and especially when air conditioner is on. Cam is custom grind and massive headwork as motor was originally built for drift racing. HPC coated pacies 2.5 all the way rebuilt 3.45 LSD and high stall. I have s shift kit in there to help with cleaner shifts as the extra horsepower was making the shift slip.

Before I spend anymore money on tuners I want to be sure it's gonna be done right and at least cure the hunting. The cam and valves make a tuff noise when running and dont want to change anything there if I dont have to. Appreciate the advice and I will let you know how it goes.

Well i reckon send the author of that thread a pm, asking about the confidence he has in cve u8sing his product, and go from there.

Nice power figure too man, not bad at all foir an auto

See http://www.tiperformance.com.au/owners_gallery.php for a list of cars tuned with our products - the high numbers are all Paul's. I can assure you that unless the cam is totally rediculous that the hunting will be solved, not even chiptorque could fix it in my 1521a equipped EF but with a bit of persistance it was done. You may want to leave the car with Paul for a night or two to make sure he can tune the cold start.

Cheers,
Jason

May I ask how you are currently switching the BBM?

BenJ

Ah here lies the issue Ben. Until recently we had a custome manifold from Snort performance on there which wasnt working. We were running this on the standard ecu with a piggy back. We have only recently gone back to the BBM and now having driveability issues. At the moment it is using vacuum to operat meaning when the vacuum drops off the butterflies close. This means it is not operating optimumly and hence one of the issues I am overcoming. If I got to an EL ecu I can them run them through a solenoid also giving better operation. The issue for me was not knowing whether to go to EL ecu or go aftermarket. general consnsus tells me to go with the EL kit.

The EL solenoid uses a vacum actuator to switch the runners. You should have a 1-way valve on your vacum lines which prevents leakage at WOT. Do you have this?

hey galapogos you are spot on. As this build has been a progression of sorts and not a planned path I dont have the solenoid in place. I have the vacuum set up in a way that is not working properly obviously. I now have that solenoid and am about to install it to overcome the issues of the BBM butterflies not working properly. At they moment they dont open or close properly which is one of the issues. In doing this at the same time I want to upgrade the ecu to allow proper tuning. There are limitations with the EB11 ecu and the piggy back I have. Paul at CVE has now got software that allows him to hack into the ef el ecu's and program them fully which is the way I want to go. I just want to make sure that I choose the right ECU for the car I have so I dont have to many ongoing issues after the ECU change.

I appreciate the input it does validate the direction i am starting to go on this.

Then if that is the case, I would suggest that any GLi Auto ECU will be fine as the base. Then source a J3 Chip with a Manual bin, and then have CVE edit it from there.

BenJ

Sounds like you haven't realised yet, but I am the guy (Jason) who provides CVE (Paul) the software and hardware to do this tuning. Which is why I listed above a bunch of cars he is tuning in my Owners Gallery!

You will need to copy the full EL setup (i.e. vacuum line, actuator, 1-way valve, wiring) and connect the wire to the EL ECU as per the factory. There is heaps of info on here about which pin it is.

Hope this helps.

Jason

Hi Jason I had a sneaking suspicion you were linked in some way and also you had TI Performance on you signature! Paul has worked on my car when it originally had a snort performance manifold on it. I have since dumped that and gone for a BBM and had to battle my engine builder to do so. Now I am stuck in a position where I am having to fix this myself wioth enough knowledge that makes me dangerous. I was aware of the solenoid issue as I had been to Jim Mock Motorsport for him to have a look at. he quoted me 1200.00 for a tune and 300 bucks to set up the solenoid for the bbm and that was using my standard EB ecu.

Since chatting to Paul he is obviously a bti cheaper but I just want the job done. I have forked out big dollars for an engine build and now I just need it tuned. I o am going to have a chat to Paul about this and see if he can do that. I have been out and picked up an EL ecu which I got for 50 bucks. So I will make him aware about this issue and that I have chatted with you. I was planning to go out and see paul after easter to have the work done.

Just need a little assist to get this over the line as it is out of area of expertise.

Cheers
Doug

$300 for an hours work and $30 worth of parts?