Hi guys. I have an NC Fairlane 5.0 with GT extractors/twin exhaust and a k&n pannel and recently installed AU MAF with e series electronics

first of all in a quest to emilinate a slight hesitation i recently did the following things. installed
- new bosch platinum plugs
- eagle 8.0 leads
- new dizzy cap and rotor button

it imporved but was not quite perfect so i bought a new coil and coolant temp sensor

i put them in tonight and the car started and idled much better... bonus!

took it for a drive and it was driving well, more crisp but once it was wamn (note the temp guage was cooler than before, almost the bottom of the normal range? any ideas there?) i put my boot into it and the motor carried on, was pinging badly so i stopped and crept home

i checked the timing in the diagnostic mode and it was spot on 30degrees (is the timing mark the flat part of the bracket on the battery side of the motor?

so my question is why is it doing this now? do i just need to run 98 octane? is the AU MAF causing it to lean out up top? why not before the temp sensor went in or the coil?

any ideas are appreciated...

the other problem is a leak in from the motor, the car has a decent leak, the oil is mainly around the drivers side engine mount, dipstick tube, spark plug leads and the chasis near the enigne mount/dipstick tube.

i got under and had a look and no leaks form any of the sump bolts, only the slightest weep from the rear main seal. i think its comming from the dipstick tube where it sits in the block, is this reasonalbe? if so whats the best way to re seal it?

thanks heaps fellas!
Jase

when you checked ur timing did you connect the two pins in your diagnostic contector because that bumps the idle up for 30 seconds so ou can check it properly, got the from the ford manual and found that mine was way out

yeah i did, it was right on that marker, the flat edge of that bracket that is on the drivers side of the ballancer

The AU MAf body will cause a leaning of the fuel curve and will cause the load calculations to be artificially low hence spark timing will be increased. Usually this provides enough of a performance gain without any of the problems you have. It's possible your hotwire is damaged so try running it back in the 55mm housing and see if any of these problems go away....if not the hotwire is probably toast.
Did you actually get any fault codes?
I'd use only 98 octane fuel anyway.
BTW is your fuel pump ok?

i have gone back to the 55 and so far no problems.

i did run the diagnostic and got two fault codes but the manual i have only covers EBII onwards in the V8 and mine is series one NC so i have to get another manual to check it out. i also replaced the coolant temp sensor and the coil and its running really well now except for this. i will run it for a few more days on the 55 and then switch back to the AU one again and see it it reappears

What are you fault codes then? I have a few workshop manuals here and might be able to help.

Yeah what code numbers? I have a factory shop manual.

ill have to recjheck them now but i think it was 12.

any ideas with the oil leak problem?

cheers fellas

Theres an O-ring on the dipstick tube where it goes into the sump.
Might be stuffed?

Or the dipstick tube might not be pushed in all the way to seat the o ring...
Apparently they tend to leak quite a bit when this happens, don't ask me how I know this

ah interesting! it leaks terribly, the main thing i am worried about is grit getting in there when i pull it out because it seems a bit dirty around the flat area where the tube sits in and its hard to get in there to clean it but i will find a way. can it just be a standard o-ring from an auto shop or is it a specific ford item? where did yours leak?

Any o ring will probably do the trick.
If you are worried about grit just drain the oil after.

Not my car, but leaked straight out the hole in the sump that the dipstick tube o ring is meant to seal, because the dipstick wasn't pushed all the way down...
Whats more worrying is how fukken long it took us to figure that out