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AUII.Denim |
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Well not quite, but i could soon if i keep it up.
3 weeks ago i had my first effort at changing the front hub assemblies in my AUII falcon. And it seems like I've f**k up somewhere. The reason i changed them was because it was making a whirring noise when i went around corners. And now that noise is back when i turn left, and there is a new noise. When the front left wheel goes up a sloped gutter there is a quite loud rattling noise coming from the front left wheel. I wouldn't be suprised if it was because of the way i installed the new hubs (prob f**k up something majorly important). Any ideas what these sounds mean?
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colin55 |
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are you sure you got the torque right on the bolt, it has to be 310nm from memory which requires a rather large torque wrench...
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Froudey |
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AUII.Denim wrote: Well not quite, but i could soon if i keep it up. 3 weeks ago i had my first effort at changing the front hub assemblies in my AUII falcon. And it seems like I've f**k up somewhere. The reason i changed them was because it was making a whirring noise when i went around corners. And now that noise is back when i turn left, and there is a new noise. When the front left wheel goes up a sloped gutter there is a quite loud rattling noise coming from the front left wheel. I wouldn't be suprised if it was because of the way i installed the new hubs (prob f**k up something majorly important). Any ideas what these sounds mean? in my opinion i would take them off and then reinstall
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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AUII.Denim |
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colin55 wrote: are you sure you got the torque right on the bolt, it has to be 310nm from memory which requires a rather large torque wrench... I didnt use a torque wrench, just a socket with a breaker bar..... should i go out and buy a torque wrench and then do them again?
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Johnny C |
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no need to buy a torque wrench, 300nm on a M16 bolt at shoulder height for me is achievable buy using a half inch breaker bar with a length of approx 2 and a half foot and pulling down using my arms only (no body weight) until the bolt stops and then a few more degrees of turn using body weight. i weigh 85kgs, this sounds dodgy but i've checked it as this is a common torque for my work. anyway, i found this also
Re: Tightening a Bolt - Without a Torque Wrench 02/16/2009 12:08 PM I'm not entirely sure what your looking for here but a simple way to apply a certain torque without a torque wrench would be to first look at what torque is. Torque is a rotational force around a point, and force is mass by acceleration. Therefore to get a torque of 200Nm, that equates to 200N at 1m (or 400N at 0.5m, or 100N at 2m or any variation like this) from the center point (center of the bolt in this case). This can be broken down again into a 20.38kg weight placed at exactly 1m from the centerpoint of the bolt at the end of a horizontal rigid bar that is attached at one end to the bolt (other end to the weight). This would give the required force of 200n at 1 meter (f=m x a, 200=20.38 x 9.81 (gravity)). you can take from that whatever you can understand, hope this helps????? |
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colin55 |
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I guess my main point is to make sure it is done up correctly, at the end of the day it is a lone bolt holding your wheel on I borrowed one from a mate, I reckon they cost alot I could not find one that measured up to 300+nm.
Cheers |
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AUII.Denim |
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Could my problem with the noises be because I didn't grease anything up when i put it on, i have a feeling i should of put some sort of lubricant somewhere....
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s-tranzor |
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Are you guys on about the bearing retainer nut???? 310nM?!??!
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AUII.Denim |
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s-tranzor wrote: Are you guys on about the bearing retainer nut???? 310nM?!??! Yeh, way off?
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mista_lroy |
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maybe the rattling noise is youve left the brake calliper mount bolts loose?and possibly youve replaced the wrong side wheel bearing,if the whirring noise is still there that is?just my thoughts
Last edited by mista_lroy on Wed Apr 08, 2009 8:41 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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luthor |
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s-tranzor wrote: Are you guys on about the bearing retainer nut???? 310nM?!??! Yes, 300Nm because these hubs are pre assembled, pre lubricated and pre loaded to take the guess work out of fitting them. |
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colin55 |
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I have two workshop manuals, one for the au and one for the ba and they both say 310nm for the front hub nut. how much were you guys thinking? I am pretty sure the E series are quite 'loose' in comparison.
Cheers |
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mista_lroy |
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no one said anything about ef here collin but your right,they get done up loose
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AUII.Denim |
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mista_lroy wrote: maybe the rattling noise is youve left the brake calliper mount bolts loose?and possibly youve replaced the wrong side wheel bearing,if the whirring noise is still there that is?just my thoughts I think ur right about the brake calliper mounts. I pulled it all apart again tonight and they seemed a little loose when i took them off, i did them up extra tight tonight and that noise is gone. I replaced both of the wheel bearings and now the noise isnt so bad after tightening up the LHS hub assembly but the sound is still there when u turn left with a bit of speed
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mista_lroy |
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sweet,good to help someone out,maybe your whirring noise is in the tyres,check for choppy lumpy treadwear,what brand and size are the tyres?
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