|
| Interceptor |
|
||
|
i've noticed with my sprint that when she's up to temp, the radiator hoses dont go hard like they should, squeeze them, theres a pulse of coolant into the header tank, and a gurgling noise under the BBQ plate
now, this happens wether i've only just got it up to temp, or if i've driven for a couple of hours, but she never gets above half on the gauge, and she doesnt seem to be losing any coolant..... anyone know whats going on?
_________________ Banned |
||
| Top | |
||
| Aaron_EF8 |
|
||
|
That's normal from what I've seen on E-Series V8's, although I could be totally off track.
I always thought the hoses going hard was something that happened on old cars, because they don't have crossflow radiators like newer cars do, as well as modern cooling systems being designed better. On a similar note, E-Series don't have a spring in the bottom rad hose to stop it sucking itself in like older cars do. |
||
| Top | |
||
| deano |
|
||
|
your cooling system should preessure up it raises the boiling point of the coolant. try replacing the cap
_________________ 1997 Ford EL Fairmont
|
||
| Top | |
||
| bowsaw |
|
|||
|
You will only be able to touch/squeeze the hoses in if something is wrong.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| millard455 |
|
|||
|
so your not ment to be able to squash radiator hose in when up to normal temp? does this go for all newer v8s and if ya can squash them in whats wrong? i know i can do it on one of my cars but cant rember wot one it was
_________________ EL XR8 SERIES 2, 5SPD, HOT CHILLI RED, 200 ODD RWKW OF V8 FUN AND GAMES |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ELV8 |
|
||
|
I had this exact same problem and when I changed the waterpump and radiator overflow cap it fixed it. I did them both at the same time so I assume it was the cap that fixed it. Only had a 100kPa and put on a 130 or 135 from memory. Make sure you get he recovery type though, I don't know why they still sell the non-recovery for newer cars!
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Aaron_EF8 |
|
||
|
Quote: You will only be able to touch/squeeze the hoses in if something is wrong.
If what is wrong? My EF gets up to temp within 5 mins, even in below 0c temps, and stays on 1/2 pretty much all the time, so I don't think anything is majorly wrong with the cooling system. I can squeeze the top and bottom rad hose still, although they aren't cold, and a bit harder than when it's dead cold. Certainly not as hard as the older cars (60's and 70's) I have seen. The overflow system works, the coolant level does vary from cold to hot, and the cap was replaced with the correct type. Does anyone have an E-Series (or AU/BA/BF even) V8 that causes the hoses to go hard when it's hot? To me, hard hoses means there's excess pressure in the cooling system, which means it's running too hot, or it's done a head gasket. |
||
| Top | |
||
| ELV8 |
|
||
|
Interesting... I'd like to know the answer to this topic. I was losing a bit of coolant through the overflow when running at half. With the new cap on there it seems to have fixed it, but now a tiny bit of coolant seeps through the gasket of the new waterpump I fitted.... maybe too much pressure.
Where do you draw the line of too much pressure/coolant loss? Mine runs at halfway when hot and sometimes a bit more with the aircon on at higher speeds. Maybe in need of a new radiator - still on its original & 8 years old. |
||
| Top | |
||
| millard455 |
|
|||
|
i thaught that if ya radiator hoses go realy hard when running it was getting hot or is that only on old cars cos when im out scrub bashing and i stop to let the car cool i wait till hoses arnt hard any more before i check the water other wise well we all no what hapens when you open a hot radiator cap
_________________ EL XR8 SERIES 2, 5SPD, HOT CHILLI RED, 200 ODD RWKW OF V8 FUN AND GAMES |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| joolz |
|
|||
|
The system should pressurise after about 10 min of driving, the radiator cap will release pressure if its to great in the system, the cap i think from memory is about 8 psi. If after 10 min of driving the temp has not risen between 1/4 and 1/2 theres something wrong (thermostat stuck open) If the top radiator is not tight to squeese the seal on the radiator/overflow tank has degridated over time causing a leak or there are greater problems like a head gasket. If unsure where the leak is have the system pressure tested.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| GTBob |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: The system should pressurise after about 10 min of driving, the radiator cap will release pressure if its to great in the system, the cap i think from memory is about 8 psi. If after 10 min of driving the temp has not risen between 1/4 and 1/2 theres something wrong (thermostat stuck open) If the top radiator is not tight to squeese the seal on the radiator/overflow tank has degridated over time causing a leak or there are greater problems like a head gasket. If unsure where the leak is have the system pressure tested.
The pressure cap should be 100-125 kpa all EF/EL 6 and 8 cyl engines which is about 15 psi. acording to the genuine manual. 
_________________ Rotten Old Revhead!!! XW GTHO + EF ex cop car (exractors 2.5 cat back zorst !6" Simmons K&N +airbox mods Lowered with Bilstein shocks+Whiteline Bars NEXT THING Swap HO for GTP or Ferrari! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| petty |
|
||
|
Got the same problem. My vehicle is fuel-injected, power steering and with no cruise. About a week my car started running really hot and the flow of my {DESCRIPTION} is not proper. Any inputs. Thanks.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 23 guests |
