|
| Kit |
|
|||
|
Ok. I've done the head gasket. And there are no leaks there.
Done the power steering pump once, and the union fitting twice. Done the brakes. Now onto the next project. The overheating issue. Please note. The radiator has been rebuilt, with new side tanks and hoses in the last 6-months. New thermostat, and coolant in it. Symptoms: Highway driving is fine. The temp gauge stays stable under 1/4, and cruises smoothly. The idle is very smooth and stable when she's running cool. But then start adding a bit of city driving, stop start traffic, and the temp starts climbing and dropping between 1/2 way and back to 1/4. Go into a carpark after an average of 1-hour of driving around, and idling slowly looking for an empty spot, around a couple of times. And temp gauge starts rising quickly to over 3/4's, the engine begins to get rough. You get a whiff of new paint, coolant and oil residue from around the engine bay, through the vents as she gets hot. And reverse and forward gears bang through the driveline as you select them, because the hot engine has a rough and lumpy eratic idle. All this and it's only 21o Celcius outside. Doesn't make sense! The car turns into a horrible mess trying to drive it around when it's reached that point. It's not normal, something isn't working properly? Maybe 1 of the fans is not longer functioning, would that make the above happen? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| phongus |
|
|||
|
Might be the fans. Pull them out and test it with a 12V battery. You'll soon know if one is dead or not.
phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| FORDom |
|
||
|
most likely your fans mate, can u hear the second one come on when it gets really hot? or when u turn on ur a/c u should hear the second fan turn on.
could also be water pump? blocked water gallery's.. I'd start with checking your fans (replace relays) then water pump (might aswell do this as its probably getting a little old now anyway, if it hasn't been done before |
||
| Top | |
||
| gogetta |
|
|||
|
hows your alternator...
and what condition was the head when u took it off? did u have it reconditioned? was the union fitting on the p.s. easy to replace?
_________________ |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| madeaspack |
|
||
|
look down the front of the radiator,between rad and air con condensor,they fill the fins of the rad with dust/grass seeds/feathers/anything,which stops the rad being able to cool the water.or the fans
_________________ 97 el xr6,5 speed short shifter,sequential scoop,no arial,freshly resprayed,low on 17's,3 inch zorst,stainless hi flo cat,snort stage 3 stainless manifold,garrett t04e,front mount cooler,wolf 3d ecu,seimens 760cc injectors,walbro fuel pump |
||
| Top | |
||
| gogetta |
|
|||
|
what do u mean by "rebuilt" radiator?
did u have it properly cleaned?..... it does seem radiator related.....or fan related...or water pump related
_________________ |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| millard455 |
|
|||
|
sounds like the fans not working. that's why it would be doing it in traffic and slow driving and not on the highway.
get it warm and have a look to see if they are working, could just be a relay.
_________________ EL XR8 SERIES 2, 5SPD, HOT CHILLI RED, 200 ODD RWKW OF V8 FUN AND GAMES |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fiftyone |
|
|||
|
push the ac button, the fans should turn on. were the cores in the radiator properly cleaned too?
_________________ ** For Sale ** http://www.fordmods.com/ford-parts-for-sale-f17/assorted-e-series-parts-t124697.html |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| 67RCE |
|
||
|
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this, Thermostat. Check it, may be seized
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Kit |
|
|||
|
Thermostat's new, and hot coolants in overflow res after driving.
One thing it's doing that it wasn't before. When it's cold, the temp gauge moves up to 1/2 way really suddenly after about 2-mins of driving. Then just plummets back to normal cool position, after I guess, the thermostat opens. Just never seen it do it like that before. Maybe thr thermostats to hot for this engine, may be I should look a cooler one??? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| cjh |
|
|||
|
Kit wrote: Thermostat's new, and hot coolants in overflow res after driving. One thing it's doing that it wasn't before. When it's cold, the temp gauge moves up to 1/2 way really suddenly after about 2-mins of driving. Then just plummets back to normal cool position, after I guess, the thermostat opens. Just never seen it do it like that before. Maybe thr thermostats to hot for this engine, may be I should look a cooler one??? Did you drill a 1/8" hole in the t'stat before fitting???? Did you check the t'stat ( in boiling water) before fitting??? Have you checked the fans are working properly??? When the engine went together, did you use just water for a week or 2???? before puting coolant in it????
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Kit |
|
|||
|
Nah coolant concentrate straight in the overflow res. Then topped up with demin. water. But I f**k up because the guy hadn't completely drained the system like I thought he had. And I went ahead and dumped 5L of concentrate in the res, and it only took about 5L of water.
So I'm doing a complete flush of it at home tomorrow. I hadn't been told about the straight water for 2-weeks first though? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| alfy12 |
|
|||
|
Sounds like that new thermostat could be suspect. As CJH said, test it in hot water. If it's an auto, put the car into diagnostic mode and move auto into drive whilst koeo. Thermo's should run.
_________________ NF Fairlane: Non Factory Dual Fuel - New coolant tank, New fuel injectors, New fuel pump, New earth cable, ECU capacitors replaced, New O2 sensor, leads and plugs, New Radiator/Condensor cleaned. 483,000kms. AU I6 Powered. Struts, Shockies, Tie rods and ball joints replaced. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| cjh |
|
|||
|
Kit wrote: Nah coolant concentrate straight in the overflow res. Then topped up with demin. water. But I f**k up because the guy hadn't completely drained the system like I thought he had. And I went ahead and dumped 5L of concentrate in the res, and it only took about 5L of water. So I'm doing a complete flush of it at home tomorrow. I hadn't been told about the straight water for 2-weeks first though? Several reasons for this, using straight water....first, your not wasting coolant if you have probs with overheating, coolant leaks, or if a heater core sh!ts itself for being dry for a month or more. Second....it gives the head gasket a chance to bond with the head and the block. Thirdly.....if the engine was hot tanked ( caustic solution used or other type acid/alkaline solution for cleaning ), it gets into the pores of the block, and doesn't all come out when washed, so it comes out when in use.....ends up in the water, and the engine oil. Caustic solutions will eat alloy ( also make Hydrogen gas too!). Another too, is if the block had a fair amount of build up in the water jackets, it will come off and block the radiator......so a good thing to do there is to use a "Radiator Sock"....goes in the top hose at the radiator to catch the crap before it goes and blocks the radiator up. You need to clean the sock out several times in the 2 weeks too. This is stuff that I have learnt over a long time ago and has faired me well.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Kit |
|
|||
|
Yeah you make a lot of sense. Radiator did become over 25% blocked after the gasket change.
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 77 guests |
