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220kw 5L rebuild 

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 12:56 pm 
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OK, I am just about to bolt on Clevite HV oil pump together with ARP drive on the 5.0 after a freshen up.

The reason I went for it was when using Mobil fully synthetic 10/30 oil it appeared to have low pressure a low rpm.
My theory was that with heat the oil thinned out & pushing more through may be better.

So do I or dont I?




Richie.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 2:32 pm 
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richie wrote:
OK, I am just about to bolt on Clevite HV oil pump together with ARP drive on the 5.0 after a freshen up.

The reason I went for it was when using Mobil fully synthetic 10/30 oil it appeared to have low pressure a low rpm.
My theory was that with heat the oil thinned out & pushing more through may be better.

So do I or dont I?




Richie.
It probably does have low oil pressure - due to the pump being old (possibly 15 years plus mileage).
The vanes wear out reducing pumping capabilities.
Oil does thin out when it is hot that is what it is designed to do and it is easier to pump oil through when it is hot.
Try putting 20-50 oil in a motor during winter, then start it (try) on a very cold morning. . .
put 10-30 in and it is a whole different ball game :)
Think about how quick the oil comes out when you do an oil chane on a hot engine vs a cold one.
If it were me - replace the stock one with a stock one.
http://data.melling.com/TECHtips.php#qa
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=67979
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 11:05 pm 
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The 220kw engine had the same oil pump as the 200kw which speeks volumes about the standard pump (the oil cooler in au3 has about 500ml capacity?)

By fitting a Z9 the HV will be more viable, the trick is to increase the engine oil volume (gallery) to meet the HV's needs. Otherwise its a waste of time for the oil just goes back to the sump through the relief valve.
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 11:27 pm 
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Power: 229 rwkw

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Just out of curiosity , what sort of timeframe is happening with this project?

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 11:36 pm 
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2 weeks boyz, with the job I have at the moment anything is possible lol :wink: .
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Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 12:39 am 
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schnoods wrote:
Just out of curiosity , what sort of timeframe is happening with this project?
hasnt polished the internals yet,3-4 months at this rate,normally 8 hrs to build + fitting,would have been worn out by now,power burn outs,drags,driving :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 7:02 pm 
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t2te50 wrote:
Who here can do a high 13/400m and still get
10.0/14.5l, higway/city fuel economy?
NO ONE!!!!!!!!!! I'll be the first, I hope :wink:

10.7 sec 1/4 mile. 300km for a 14.47L refill. Less than $20k outlay.

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 11:08 pm 
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Power: 274 rwkw

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AH 2 wheels is the way to do that^^^^
Brett

 

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Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008 11:14 pm 
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Nice Real nice Kilma :lol: I am sure there are quite a few more out there. . . Guess it really depends on how lead footed the driver is and how well maintained the car/bike is.
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 3:26 pm 
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Yeah, sightly cheating, but it fits the requrements (unlike the car).

I can honestly say, that's the best purchase I have ever made.

 

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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 2:36 pm 
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 6:22 pm 
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I really hope thats not the original T-series bonnet :shock:

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:30 am 
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That's so a 1" phenolic spacer can fit... :?

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 7:37 am 
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It looks better in the flesh and by the way these bonnets are dime a dozen, what makes you think their any different to the rest?
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:53 pm 
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t2te50 wrote:
It looks better in the flesh and by the way these bonnets are dime a dozen, what makes you think their any different to the rest?


I cant see that looking better from any angle. Every ford panel has an original panel code, like a serial number. I would have put the original one to the side and destroyed a different one, coz afterall that is what you have to do the poor thing :lol:

 

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