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| BenJ |
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I noticed during the week that my Cruise Control had stopped working. It would turn on, but would not set. And then this morning I went to blast some idiot woman driver with the horn, only to be very disappointed with complete silence.
However, that gave me an idea as to why the Cruise was no long operational, as the horn is earthed through the cruise circuit. A bit of testing later proved that my hunch was correct. Had 12V but nothing to earth. Had to be a break in the earth circuit. The wiring inside the wheel boss looked correct, so the next step was to pull the wheel off and check the connections between the wheel and the column. This is what the boss kit should look like. The 3 rings sit in permanent contact with spring loaded pads and connect 12v, earth, and cruise signals between the wheel and the column.  But this is what I found.  The wire had broken off the solder point on the ring and the ring had come loose.  I think the glue failed holding the ring in place and then after it fell down the wire broke later. Luckily, not too hard to fix. Grabbed the soldering iron, reattached the offending wire, glued the ring back into place with some super-glue, and job done. ******************************************************* And now for a small teaser.   I couldn't resist. I tried not to, honest, I did. Cheers BenJ
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| ToranaGuy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Yep, leaking from the front seal now. I have now put in a third power steering pump which is a loaner (Cheers SWC) until I can source a good one. So far it appears to be holding up well. Cheers BenJ Bugger. Seal kits are cheap, and if the pump hasn't run dry it will probably be ok with a new seal kit thru it. You can buy a pulley remover kit from bursons for about $60 or so. Seal kits are pretty cheap too. I've got one & re-sealed a couple of pumps I've had that were leaking a bit from the front seal, but never allowed to run dry. I used to just buy another s/h pump when mine leaked, until i racked up about 10 sitting in the shed.  I've sealed up a few & sold them cheap, or given them to mates for a slab of beer or a bottle of spirits.  RE the door handles? AU? Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| XR-Lane |
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WTF are you up to mate
 Dont you like key holes on your front doors
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| BenJ |
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Yep, AU handles.
Will sit flush, look trick and factory all at the same time. LOL The mechanism is the same as E series so it shouldn't be too hard to get them functioning. Cheers BenJ
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| XR-Lane |
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Looks good mate
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| BenJ |
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{USERNAME} wrote: What re your plans with the groove that runs horizontal along the panel, half way up the handle? You going to blend it or fill it? . The plan is to blend it up to nothing approx 10-15mm from either side of the handle. If it is uniform on each door, it will look like it was meant to be that way. Cheers BenJ
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| SWC |
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Any more progress Ben?
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| BenJ |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Any more progress Ben? LOL, you tell me. Just to be clear, SWC is very kindly doing the welding of the AU door pieces for me. This is a trial of an idea, and will either prove the theory or show if it is harder than first thought. Cheers BenJ
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| XR-Lane |
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Plenty of confidence with SWC with seeing his work on the bonnet
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| huggiebear |
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agreed. almost worth moving to NSW and becoming friends with him
or i can always just send him an XA or XB base model bonnet to graft to my lane bonnet.. i dont want the vents.. just the humps
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| ToranaGuy |
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The idea on the door handles is good, and I can't wait to see one finished & see what it's like in the flesh.
Keep up the good work BenJ! Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}|{DESCRIPTION}| |
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| Froudey |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Any more progress Ben? LOL, you tell me. Just to be clear, SWC is very kindly doing the welding of the AU door pieces for me. This is a trial of an idea, and will either prove the theory or show if it is harder than first thought. Cheers BenJ I am going to keep an eye on that... I want to do this for the 720,
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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| SWC |
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{USERNAME} wrote: agreed. almost worth moving to NSW and becoming friends with him or i can always just send him an XA or XB base model bonnet to graft to my lane bonnet.. i dont want the vents.. just the humps I have Bonnet or can aquire one in Sydney to suit Fairmont/Lane but you will need to aquire the XB bonnet centre. XA no good as they don't have any hump at all. Another option is to use TC 6cyl Cortina bonnet. Happy to qive you a quote on the work as long as you are happy to pay the freight. |
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| huggiebear |
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i have actually spent the last hour going over what could look good on the NC bonnet. as its soo long and flat nothing will suit it really..
i assume your talking about a TC cortina? they have the box type hump if it is? i might muck around with a few ideas out of interest if the 2 bonnets were suplied, how much would a bonnet graft like bens cost? |
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| SWC |
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{USERNAME} wrote: i have actually spent the last hour going over what could look good on the NC bonnet. as its soo long and flat nothing will suit it really.. i assume your talking about a TC cortina? they have the box type hump if it is? i might muck around with a few ideas out of interest if the 2 bonnets were suplied, how much would a bonnet graft like bens cost? Alot depends on what you want grafted and condition of Bonnet/ Graft and how much work is involve in clean up and jst how far do you want the bonnet finished. |
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