not trying to get into a debate, but its the passenger side that lifts under load..
ive broken plenty of passenger side engine mount from engine lift..lol

No debate....pure physics...every action has as equal and opposite reaction...

Engine turns clockwise from front, block turns opposite, hence passenger side lifts. I also wrecked thats' side mount.....

Anywho....nice work BenJ........

You only have to ask if you need any "specialised" help...lol

Cheers

Daz

Apolagies, Stand corrected. Not having a great week.

Brakes - Again

One of the first fixes the Wagon got was the front rotors.

This is what the new rotors looked like when I put them on in Dec 08.


After 50k + kms, machined once in Sept 09 they looked like this.


Makes for a rather shakey wheel, and pulsing pedal while braking. NOT FUN!!!!!

Then on Wednesday I found some DBA Slotted Street Series rotors on Ebay for $120 a pair. Couldn't click the buy button quick enough. Local pick up for me too, direct from the DBA Warehouse.

New stuff on the car.



SOOOOOOOO much nicer to drive now. Pedal is lighter. Requires much less effort to pull up. And SMOOOOTTHHH while slowing. Lovely.

I have also noticed the small shimy I had from the steering wheel at highway speeds is also gone.

Very Happy!!

Cheers
BenJ

PS Happy Fathers Day to all you Dads out there.

Last edited by BenJ on Sun Sep 05, 2010 9:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

That's a good score on those rotors BenJ! I think i need to go to slotted next time i change the front rotors, but i still have one or two rounds of machining left, so can't really justify it until they require replacing.

I too have broken a couple of passenger engine mounts.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

BA DOHC 6 - Progress

Air Conditioning Pump Bracket - Take Two


After SWC came to visit last week I decided to remake the A/C Pump brackets and build them off the block instead of the BA A/C Pump factory mount. Seeing BBQBurners photos confirmed this was the right choice to make.

I tried a couple of things and finally settled on a plan. It is a bit hard to explain, so hopefully the pics will make it clear.

Here is the new upper bracket.


And the lower one.


Lower Bracket mounted on pump. It now mounts flush to the pump with no spacers.


Upper bracket bolted to the block using EL A/C Pump spacers between it and the block.


Lower bracket and pump bolted to the block. I had to space this bracket out to clear the protusion and allow for the mounting bolt nut to fit in.



Upper bracket and pump bolted to bracket. Here I used a couple of nuts on the long bolt to provide a small amont of adjustment in the spacing.


The A/C Pump now sits in nice and snug to the block, and is approx 20mm higher than BBQBurners, which should give plenty of clearance for the A/C pipes from the chassis. In addition the pulley alignment is pretty much spot on, and there is some scope for finer adjustment if required.

Old setup.


New setup.


The only downside is the EL belt is now far too long, and I will need to source a shorter one.


***************************************************
Heater Pipes

I also had a quick play with the heater pipes.

For those that don't know, the BA has the heater pipes on the right side of the car, while the E Series ones are on the left. This means some relocation of inlets and outlets needs to occur.

Here is a pic of an EL front heater pipe in the BA thermostat housing.


I think this will do nicely. I will use a cut down EL rear pipe to relocate the heater outlets to the left side of the engine.

I will have more on this later in the week.

Cheers
BenJ

Last edited by BenJ on Sun Oct 30, 2011 11:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

Love ya work BenJ. Keep at it man, I can't wait to see this finished. The engine mods to fit it that is. A project car is never really finished is it?

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Thats a big improvement Ben. Have a couple more ideas for you, will talk soon.

Remove the intake manifold and bolt something straight to the head that would take up the EL belt length.

Should be able to get a belt that is the right length.

If the belt is a 6pk 2340 for arguments sake (I know i know, that's a commodore belt, i sell lots at work), the 2340 is length in mm. Work out how much shorter you need, say 40mm shorter, and see what belts are available as a 6pk 2300 or around that size. The auto tensioner will give you a little room to play with size.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Hi Benj, with the heater pipe why not see if you can get a BF one for the thermostat. They only go to the left hand side of the motor because of the trans cooler.
Foggy

How about a S/C to take up that extra belt length?

Rumour going round is once its done a turbo is on the way

Sort of already said, a few posts ago by some drongo

for valiants you can get a bracket thet slides over the engine mount limiting the strech of the rubber maybe one could be designed for the ford ??? ef type of engine mount is round and a simple welded box with cutouts to accomidate the mounting thread sould do or you could go cowboy and weld some chain to the subfraim and bolt it to the motor with just enough slack to keep every one happy lol

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