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fiend |
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Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon wrote: Hi Tony, Long time no chat! You know the brake issue very well I am sure. Yeahp, was the first thing I found out about the E series, as I know you know. Swapping motors, frames, and all the rest of it is worth it for a brake upgrade? Well, that's one way of looking at it.Slotted and dimpled rotors FTW on that front. However, if you happen to have a DOHC wreck lying around collecting dust, by all means...! |
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BenJ |
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huggiebear wrote: im pretty sure one of the guys on boosted just got his lower arm ADR approved for production so you can fit BA brakes without mods to anything else like k-frame no idea on prices yet tho Actually, he has had them made, but not ADR approved yet. He is having issues with bump steer at the moment and is trying to resolve it. XR-Lane wrote: that would be handy. but atleast if you do the whole Kframe, you get everything. power steering, struts, sway bar. and there is no mods of any kind to fit the sump. No point having ADR approved modded stub axles when you need to either cut your sump or k frame. B0XCAR wrote: To fit BA motor into EA-ED, You drop engine mounts alittle, And get sledge hammer out, And bend the k-frame a little... Brucie Heinrich does all the time, And has had no problems with that I have looked closely at the AU/BA Kframe swap, but as this is my daily, I can't afford the time and expense. If I had the luxury of being able to build a 'project' car, this would be a must do on the list of mods. To fit the BA in the Wagon, I believe the XB bonnet is tall enough to clear the rocker cover without dropping the mounts, and I have a spare K Frame to be modified and painted before it goes in the car. It will look factory and unless you know E Series like we do you wouldn't pick it. Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon wrote: You know the brake issue very well I am sure. The capability to fit territory 320mm discs for next to no cost is definitely a plus. I do love the way my Territory stops. Or even 340mm discs from the performance model spec. I wouldn't call it a 'brake issue'. More a HUGE lack of upgrade options. LOL Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon wrote: Where are the photos with the new wheels and rubber boots Ben? I have picked up the replacement wheels. They are AJR Signature Copies. They need a little TLC, but are sound and round. Tires will be fitted on Friday after work. Thursday after work, the A/C is getting some attention. Need cool air for the trip to the Sunny State. Cheers BenJ
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SLO247 |
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Brother!
Should look great on yours, they suit Boxcars better. |
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BenJ |
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Yep, that be them.
Cheers BenJ
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TimmyA |
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I've got them too... Great wheels IMO...
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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XR-Lane |
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fowlerj wrote: XR-Lane wrote: that would be handy. but atleast if you do the whole Kframe, you get everything. power steering, struts, sway bar. and there is no mods of any kind to fit the sump. No point having ADR approved modded stub axles when you need to either cut your sump or k frame. The whole point is though - you can run BA brakes while still keeping your E series motor. It would be a massive effort to replace all those things you listed just for brakes when your keeping the current motor in. I thought the whole point was - We are discussing Ben's situation and options on how Ben will install his BA engine. Being he has now stated he will not be touching his current setup, Maybe these modded stub axles are the way to go for him? |
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BenJ |
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XR-Lane wrote: Being he has now stated he will not be touching his current setup, Maybe these modded stub axles are the way to go for him? Not at an estimated $1100 per pair they won't be. And then you still have to get all the BA bolt ons, brakes, calipers, uprights, upper control arms etc. I am quite happy with the brakes as they are for now. Cheers BenJ
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XR-Lane |
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Bloody hell that is dear. I wonder how many people would actually be willing to fork out that much cash for that?
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huggiebear |
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if you get some AUII+ brakes for free 1100 would be a good price.
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Rick's EF Fairmont Wagon |
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You can take the sacrificial route with e series brakes...
Metal pads of some sort... many people swear by EBC greenstuffs etc. You chew out the rotors pretty fast with certain pads but do stop better. New rotors are so cheap now it's almost as easy as machining the old ones.
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TROYMAN |
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imo, unless your a maniac or doing track work? there is no need to spend thousands of dollars on brake upgrades....
some slotted rotors, decent pads and some braided lines will do the job fine on a street car... |
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BenJ |
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TROYMAN wrote: imo, unless your a maniac or doing track work? there is no need to spend thousands of dollars on brake upgrades.... some slotted rotors, decent pads and some braided lines will do the job fine on a street car... Agreed. BenJ
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TimmyA |
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I'm a little with Ben & Troy...
Take for example a like mine without ABS... If you can stand on the pedal hard enough to look the front wheels up with the factory brakes (as I've done on occasion) this is the limit of traction on the front wheels... So bigger better brakes means what exactly? That its easier to lock them up all the more? Does this seem to you it make it more unsafe because you are more likely to lock them up? Fair enough if you have girly legs I suppose and can't stand on the pedal hard enough And with ABS is the same case... You can only break til ABS pushes your foot off the pedal... If you can get ABS to engage with std brakes then what do bigger brakes achieve? On a race car I can understand so you can get more brakes with having to break so hard as you are using that for every corner... Surely you don't come to a screaming halt every time you break in your car? To me the factory brakes work fine... With 8" wheels and 235 tires (pretty average quality atm as that what came with the rims) I can fine heaps of traction and I'd reckon I could damn near pull up as good as a modern car, would love to try actually just to test the theory... As Troy said... Slotted rotors, decent pads, I'm unsure whether braid lines are worth the cost as I can't see much improvement? Are they any good or not for the cost? Only other I recommend is the V8 or XR booster (same booster) as its twin diaphragm and does make a difference, its smaller diameter so getting on is no hassles, getting the old one out is the hard bit... And it just fits the EL clruise module (as EF & EL has the POS plastic one and didn't come out with a twin diaphragm that I've seen?) Cheers, Tim
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TROYMAN |
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without going to technical and to far off topic in bens thread.(sorry ben)
the main advantage of bigger brakes is the ability to stay cooler for longer, when on a track /curcuit your constantly on the brakes hard, the larger brakes have a larger pad and rotor surface meaning it takes more to get them hot and the larger surface area allows them to cool faster than std brakes.. and with our e series brakes, they are still good enough for a few hard stops at speed before they fade away.. |
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TimmyA |
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ah... didn't think about point... makes sense though... the old brake fade...
Really wanna be justified for thousands of dollars to upgrade wouldn't it... certainly not an upgrade i'll be rushing out to do...
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